My Tales from Spain!

Preparing for our new life in Valencia, Spain. 

Blog 1

 

One evening during the springtime of 2022, after a few wines, we decided lets move to Spain! 

After watching many episodes of a place in the sun on TV, and some online research, we knew that the Valencia region of Spain was somewhere that would tick a lot of our boxes.

In particular the Safor region, known for its long white sandy beaches and Orange groves.

We started making a list of what we needed to do, We knew first we should plan a short trip there and have a look for ourselves.  So we booked flights and accommodation for a 4 day trip. 

But a week before we were due to go, new travel restrictions in Spain, for non EU countries, meant we were unable to travel. (covid!) 

 

So without really knowing what the area was like, we started getting our house staged ready for valuation. 

We had spent the past 8 years, slowly renovating it. I had painted every inch of woodwork in the property (all three floors) with farrow and balls, all white!

 My husband had restored all the original wood floorboards etc and we had the dark, basement made into a lovely bright garden lounge,  It had been a labour of love for us both.

 People esp from London and the Midlands, were buying houses in our area, having only viewed online. One good thing about the pandemic, for us was that many programes on TV,  had showcased how beautiful Devon and Cornwall were. This sent the housing market all over the South west into a bit of a frenzy!

On Saturday morning, a man called round out of the blue, interested in buying our sea kayaks from an advert we had placed. (We were clearing tons of stuff from our under basement storage, ready to move) He decided they were too heavy for him to manage. 

As he was leaving, he asked us why we were selling them, so we told him our plans, it turned out he had his own estate agency in the next town.

He sent someone to value the house on Monday, and came back with the exact figure we had dreamed of, plus the house sold to the first couple who viewed, 1 week later!  

This lifted our spirits plus sent us into a blind panic! 

 

 It was time to tell family and friends about our plans. Our youngest daughter was away at university, about to finish her first year. It would mean during half terms she would have to fly to Spain, instead of catching a train home to Devon. 

When we drove her to Hertfordshire Uni, last September, I cried nonstop for the 6 hr car journey home! (My husband was driving!)

Our middle daughter had been living and working around the world for many years, She was about to go to Costa Rica, to manage a yoga & surf retreat for 6 months, then to New Zealand, so our plans wouldn’t affect her too much.

Then we told our eldest Daughter and our three grandchildren. They were ok, once we said we would pay for them to holiday in Spain with us every Summer. Plus we would Video call and obviously come and visit them too.

We are all very close and I was apprehensive about how I would feel leaving everyone behind, and to be honest some nights I would lay awake worrying about it. As by nature Iam very much a creature of habit, and not great with changes.

I was fast approaching the age that my mother was, when she passed. After a long battle with breast cancer. (diagnosed at 50!)                                      I felt it could be now or never, so I forced myself to be more adventurous. 

 

 

Starting our visa process!   

We had been hearing that post Brexit the Spanish consulate in London was in chaos. People had been waiting up to 6 months, just to get an appointment.  Worse still, due to the excessive workload the Spanish staff were about to go out on strike! 

Anyway we were soon to learn that before we could even apply for an appointment, we had to have all the required documentation completed.

 

This is what they required-

 

Letters from both our employers stating we had given notice (which meant telling our work earlier than we had hoped!)

A letter from our GP stating we had no known diseases and were in good health. This had to be marked with an official GPs ink stamp. 

A  Spanish private medical care certificate for us both (which you can only get once the policy starts,  which meant  us paying for full private health care in Spain, while still living in UK!)   

Full written police checks (to prove we didn’t have criminal records)

Personal letters stating why we wanted to come and live in Spain. Plus proof we had enough money to fully support ourselves in Spain (which we would only have post house completion!)

 

All the documentation then had to be translated into Spanish, then made into legal documents via a sworn notary.

 Thankfully we found a really good online company who guided us through each step, for a fee.                                        They were worth every penny!

 

As we have Watson our Welsh Corgi, several vet appointments would be needed, for vaccines and paperwork.

Post brexit, they view us and our pets, the same as if we were entering Spain from Africa or South America.                 When England was in the EU there were none of these complicated rules in place.                                                               We had complete freedom of movement anywhere across Europe.

 

 

I decided to subscribe to babble online, and started to learn some Spanish. We had both only learnt basic French at school and had mostly holidayed in France. So we were completely starting Spanish from scratch. On learning that     carrot was zanahoria, I realized it could be quite a lengthy process! 

 

In early July the travel restrictions in Spain were finally lifted, so we were able to go and see the Safor coast for ourselves.

  We flew to Valencia from Bristol, then picked up our little hire car and drove for about an hour south.

 We stayed in the old town area, of a small coastal town. It still had medieval pathways and was steeped in history.  

We rented a little town house, which had a small roof terrace. The view overlooked roof tops and orange groves,      for miles around.

It was too hot to enjoy sitting up there in the day, even after midnight the sweat would just pour from you. 

One time we were up there enjoying a glass or two of wine, around 11pm. We could see people, starting up their gas BBQs for dinner!  I later learned 11pm is quite normal for dinner!  

 

The whole coast along this stretch was beautiful, with miles of flat sandy beaches and wild dunes. It was peppered with 1920s style beach houses, but no hotels.  

If you stood at the shoreline and looked back, the beach was framed with green mountains in the distance, it was beautiful.  

 

The Valencia region is known as the garden of Spain which was another big plus, as I have been obsessed with Mediterranean cookery most of my life. 

We visited the weekly market on Friday morning; it was bursting with fresh produce. Peaches, Cherries & Strawberries along with every fruit and veg you could think of. Stalls selling fresh garlic, pickled olives and salted cod. A lady was frying churros from a food truck (fried thin doughnut type cakes.)  

 

It was very crowded, mostly with little old Spanish ladies, filling their large shopping trolleys, full of produce for the weekend.  They all seemed to know each other, their happy chatter, along with the aromas of the market,               filled the air. 

The stalls continued the long length of the tree lined paseo, selling kitchen wares, ceramics, fresh flowers               and clothing. There was a wonderful energy.

On either side of the market, the streets were lined with little bars, which were mostly filled with old men, sitting at tables by the roadside. They were Chatting cheerily, drinking small glasses of beer with little bowls of monkey nuts.  (A Valencian tradition I would later learn)  

 

 

 

It was fun spotting all the places we had seen on a place in the sun, at least 5 episodes had been filmed here. 

On the evening of my 54th birthday, we went to a little bar on the square, in the old town. We sat outside enjoying a jug of sangria, overlooking the beautiful blue and gold domed church. 

The sun was starting to set, and the ancient stonework had a beautiful golden glow.  

It made for wonderful people watching, young boys were playing football, elderly ladies were coming and going from the huge golden door of the church, some proudly carrying colourful floral displays. 

Cars would slowly drive past, on the narrow cobbled road , built for mules rather than cars. Some had latino music blaring out, as they passed. 

   Sadly our time in Spain was coming to an end, as we could only stay for 4 nights. (Dog sitting and work commitments!)

 

But even after such a short stay, we both agreed we could be very happy living here.

 

 

Blog 2

Still preparing for our new life in Valencia, Spain!

By the end of July all the documentation for our visa application was completed. So we applied for our    appointment, at the Spanish consulate in London. 

Unfortunately the staff were all now out on strike!     So we knew it could be a waiting game.

 

All my spare time was now spent, sorting, clearing and taking car loads of beloved kitchen china, cookbooks (I had been collecting for a lifetime) clothing, bedding and all sorts of stuff, to charity shops or to our Daughter who lived close by. 

 I sorted through family photos, which filled a small bedroom!

 I gave a large box of photos to my Brother, from our childhood (I had all the photos when my dad moved house!) I made up a box for each of our 3 Daughters. 

I also had all my in laws family photos (married 54 yrs!) as my mother in law had recently gone into a residential home.

 I saved a few special ones and packed up several large boxes for my Sister in law in Oxford.

 I had to be quite ruthless, and only keep treasured ones for ourselves. They would have to fit into one Nike trainer box. (Quite a challenge!)

 

 

 We had recently found a courier company to take our large furniture and most treasured belongings over to Spain. We got quotes from 3 companies and the difference in cost was absolutely huge. There was almost £10,000 difference from one quote, to the one we chose. 

 It was arranged they would come and pick up all our items the second week of September.

We had to box and wrap/protect every item ourselves. We paid for an extra large transit van, so we measured out the exact space and marked on our dining room floorboards, and the height of the van space on the wall. 

 Over the weeks we filled every inch of the space, with all the boxes and sofas and beds etc.  The courier company would then store our stuff in a warehouse in Birmingham, until they were ready to drive it to Spain. No fixed date. (Which considering our visa situation, was fine with us!)

 

 Next we found a Spanish storage company in the little town where we had recently stayed. Thankfully the owner spoke good English. 

We explained our situation and she was very helpful. We paid her a deposit and she told us she would save a suitable storage space, from the 2nd week of September onwards.    

We gave her details to our courier company so they could liaise, suitable times and dates to drop off our shipment.

 

It was starting to feel quite exciting now, like it was really going to happen. Also we had the exchange date for the house, 26th Sept!

 

Next we contacted an estate agent in our little town in Spain. We asked to rent a small house, in the old town area, on a short term lease. Then we could take our time finding somewhere ideal, to buy in the area. 

By the end of the week, they had set us up with a dog friendly rental, which we would start paying rent on, from Oct 1st.

 The rental was available by the month until the    owners would come out at Easter.  This took the   pressure of us and we felt we were almost ready to leave our home.

 

 

 We had both given notice to our places of work, back in early July. My last working day was Sept 1st.               I worked for a community development trust, I       supported  people with ideas to improve their local community.

One minute I would be meeting with councillors, the next, having a walk and chat with a local hoarder.         I really loved it.

The team gave me a fabulous leaving party; it was a gloriously sunny day, in a community allotment. They bought fabulous tapas dishes from home,  filling a long table. 

As well as a BBQ, and several beautiful homemade cakes, was an acoustic singer, who performed songs written about my time with them, and some of the   funny things that had happened. 

 

 Once I had finished work, it was now time to sell my Mini Cooper. It was quite a wrench, as it had been my favourite car. Plus it had served me very well, over the past 8yrs.  

The lady that bought it was the same age as me, and I could tell she would appreciate it as much as I had. 

 It was now time to take Watson (our Corgi) for his     rabies vaccination.

 As by the rules it had to be done at least 21 days before travel.

 While talking with the vet, she told me that the paperwork for the animal health certificate couldn’t be done any sooner than 10 days before entering Spain.         (so many rules!)

 I told her we have no idea of our leave date yet, but as soon as we had our visa approved, I would call her and book. 

 

Unfortunately several days later, we were back at the vets. Watson decided to bite, quite severely, into his thick bushy tail.

 The vet put this down to him being anxious, as all our belongings were now in boxes, and in a huge pile. 

(I was worried he had got rabies from his vaccination and tried to eat his own tail!)

It took 3 members of staff to fit a cone around Watsons head. He was not at all keen!

 

 

Our daughter spent all of August at the house, and several of her  friends from Uni came to stay. Thankfully the weather was nice, so they were out enjoying the local beaches most days.

 I enjoyed meeting up with friends, for goodbye lunches, and writing handover notes both for work and the house.( hot tub instructions and plants in the garden etc)

 

On Aug bank holiday weekend we had a family day on Dartmoor.   My Dad, brother and family, travelled down from Bristol. Plus two of our daughters and our three grandchildren. 

It was a beautiful late summer’s day. We all sat under a large awning and shared a picnic. Chatting while   watching the children paddle in the shallow stream.       It was a perfect family day. 

 

 

With still no news of our appointment with the consulate!!

We now had to start planning where we would stay, after we completed on our house.

 We found an eco lodge in North Devon, on Air B and B. It was dog friendly so we booked it for two weeks.

 

The courier company came and took all our boxes and furniture,   leaving the house very bare and empty.

 For the next couple of weeks, we slept on an inflatable camping mattress. We had a laptop for our TV, plus 1 cup, 1 plate, and 1 set of cutlery each, but it was fun and exciting.    

 

Then on Sept 25th the day before completion, we packed the car with what was left of our stuff. 

With bikes on the roof and an anxious corgi, (with cone) in the back. 

 We said goodbye to our home! 

 

 

Blog 3

A new life in Valencia, Spain...Our nomadic life, still waiting for our Spanish visa!

 

After driving for just over an hour we arrived at our home for the next two weeks! 

It was a damp late Sept afternoon as we drove into the Eco lodge car park. We got out and had a little explore around. The lodge was set in a corner of a large farm. It was secluded with tall hedging and had uninterrupted views, of open countryside, from its front windows and little decked garden. 

We knocked at the farm, to collect our keys from the farmer (who was jolly and friendly) and we unloaded our things from the car. Inside the eco lodge was like a wooden Wendy house, so small and cute.                         I had it feeling homely and cosy in no time.  

After a good night’s sleep (in separate beds as they were doll sized!) 

We all went exploring the local area. It was very rural, with lots of beautiful walking trails but the neatest shop was a 20 min drive away, which was very basic and closed on Sundays. 

We were deep into a forest walk when our solicitor phoned, saying that the completion on the house had gone through, and the money had gone into our account! 

We celebrated that evening with some lovely local cheeses, and wine.

 

 

It was a Good job I had packed our welly boots as it didn’t stop raining, pretty much for the whole 1st week. But, we were both starting to unwind and feel relaxed. 

 

Thankfully by the 2nd week, the weather was much better and we had some beautiful day trips to Bude and Saunton sands. We took Watsons cone off and he was having the time of his life, running freely along the vast, empty sandy beaches. 

We enjoyed a delicious vegetarian Sunday roast, in a village pub near the lodge. It only served food once a week! We were all adapting to country life quite well.

 

The nights were starting to draw in, and it was dark, around 7pm.

During these evenings we started to look at where we would stay next, as we were coming to the end of our time here. We wanted to stay in the South west area as we were using our Daughters address for the Spanish consulate and other vital mail, she was in Torquay. 

We found a dog friendly, 1 bed cottage, on a farm in Tavistock, on Dartmoor.  So we booked it for our next 2 weeks. 

The following morning, during our breakfast, we finally heard from the consulate!! 

 Via email, they invited us to our appointment, which was in 5 days time. 

Monday morning at 10.30am!

 

 

 

So on Saturday morning, we said our goodbyes to the farmer and his eco lodge, and we headed off to our new temporary home on Dartmoor. We arrived late afternoon after exploring Tavistock and picking up some much needed supplies. 

We had booked a 1 night stay in London, for the next night. To be close by, for our long awaited appointment, at 10.30am Mon.  

So after just 1 night in our new accommodation, with Watson in the back, we set off on our journey to London.

After several hours, on the road, we arrived to our canal side accommodation. It was on the outskirts of London, and It looked a lot shabbier than in the photos online.

 As we walked through, no one was on reception, so we carried on to the bar area, there sat a few rough looking men with very scary dogs! 

I was starting to feel very uncomfortable, but was trying not to let it show!

 We reluctantly ate some basic food, on offer at the bar (cheesy chips!) Then went to our room and locked the door.  I didn’t sleep much.  

 

We were up and out of there, at the crack of dawn.  We put our stuff in the car and gave Watson his morning toilet walk. We walked along the canal path (which was pitch dark, misty and very creepy!) 

We started our short journey into central London, we were scheduled to arrive at our pre paid parking space (in a church car park off Sloane street) at around 8.30am. 

Allowing plenty of time for some breakfast, and another short dog walk, as we would have to leave Watson in the car. Dogs weren’t allowed in the consulate!

 

The short journey ended up taking us over 3 hours, due to lane closures. We made it to the car park at 10.15, I quickly gave Watson a little kiss, praying he would still be there when we got back. At least the car was in gated church grounds! 

Then we both ran at full speed to the consulate. 

 

 

We just made it, hot sweaty and super stressed! As we joined the long line outside, someone with a clipboard came out and called out our names. They checked my bag at security then ushered us into a waiting room.  After 5 mins, we were asked to go to a small counter. Like at the post office, and hand in all our documents. 

The whole process took no more than 10 mins. To be quite honest it felt  a bit under whelming, after all the months of preparing and waiting. Plus the journey to get here.

After, we took Watson for a little walk around Knightsbridge. We managed to find a nice brasserie with outside seating (dog friendly.) We had some Earl grey tea and pastries, and Watson had some posh sausages. We were absolutely ravenous. 

We enjoyed this happy moment of calm, until my  husband received the eye watering bill! 

We did our journey in reverse back to Dartmoor. It was pitch dark when we finally arrived back, at the little farm cottage.

Watson in London...Watson glad to be back playing on Dartmoor, keeping one eye on the wild ponies! 

Blog 4

Our nomadic life in the uk, still waiting for our Spanish visa... pt 2

Early Tuesday morning we were all abruptly awakened by the farmer’s alarm clock at 5.30am! And almost every morning during our 2 wk stay!  It turned out the farmers bedroom, was joined to their newly converted paper thin walled, air B & B accommodation!

The people we spoke to at the consulate said we should hear back from them within 3 wks, so at least we now had a loose timeframe to work with. (Assuming our visas do get approved!)

 

Over the next 2 weeks, we enjoyed exploring the local area. There were so many areas of outstanding natural beauty, right on our door step, plus the weather was great. 

We walked on the moors, paddled in shallow streams, and wild ponies came to eat apples from our hands. We walked along high viaducts, ate at lovely national trust tea rooms. Every day was glorious so we mostly stayed out until dusk.

I managed to find a good launderette as we were getting desperately low on clean items by now. I handed them 2 giant bags of clothing, and 4 hours later I collected it, all clean and beautifully folded. Just wonderful! 

Once again we were coming to the end of our stay, so we started looking at where to book next. We found a pet friendly fisherman’s cottage in Appledore (on the North Devon coast)  We booked it for 1 week this time, hoping we would hear back from the consulate very soon.

 

During our time here, we had been driving past a very strange looking pub, between the farm and the town.  It looked like something from a Grim fairytale or Dickens novel, and part of the building dates back to the 11th century.  So on our last evening, we plucked up the courage to go inside and have a look.

We were greeted by an elderly couple, dressed in gothic style clothing from head to toe.  It was very dark inside, and the floor was uneven, ancient cobbles. There was some light coming from several candles, and a few well placed table lamps. On closer inspection, the place was crammed full of pagan ornaments, animal skeletons, five pointed stars, etc. 

It was all very creatively arranged but incredibly surreal. We sat in a little alcove and the man appeared from nowhere, making us both jump in our seats.

 He gave us two menus (no way were we going to eat here!)  We ordered some cider that he recommended, that they had made themselves! 

We drank them down pretty quick, walked about taking some photos, and sneaked out.  As we walked back to our car we noticed the sky was totally light up, with a beautiful full moon!

 

We left the farm, (and the farmers early morning alarm clock) the next morning. Then we drove just over an hour, to the coastal village of Appledore. 

We parked  in the main public car park on the harbour, then walked down a little alleyway and found our rental. 

It was called, Tillermans cottage. we got our key from a key code box outside the property, then went in to explore. It was a very thick walled, tiny terraced fishermen’s cottage. We entered into a  narrow hallway, filled with maritime objects and framed pictures. 

A tiny, but cosy, living room and small kitchen, led to the narrow steepest stairs we had ever seen. You had to virtually pull yourself up using the rail, even Watson couldn’t climb them. (This proved to be very tricky after a few wines carrying the dog up to bed!) Upstairs was a large bedroom and tiny shower room. All very cute.

 

It rained every day we were in Appledoor. We put on our raincoats and went for a walkabout.  There was one cafe that stayed open (out of season) and a couple of pubs, plus a fish and chip shop that opened for a couple of hrs, Fri and Sat.

 The village was quaint and charming, and you could tell when the sun was shining it would be nice. Although walking about, we noticed that almost every little cottage had key codes outside, and they were dark and empty inside. (Obviously seasonal lets and holiday homes)

It left me feeling sad for what once would have obviously been a busy community. One cottage was named the old bake house, I could just imagine it bustling with energy, as fishermen’s wives popped in for warm freshly baked bread, and a gossip .     

 

 

Thankfully the internet was good, so we mostly stayed home cosy, watching Netflix. We found a good sized supermarket in Barnstable (A 15 min drive away) so we stocked up on food, treats and wine! 

Towards the end of the week we still hadn’t heard from the consulate, so we started to plan, where to go next. We were starting to fill a bit in a limbo state now, the weather wasn’t helping. We booked a converted barn in Axbridge, just on the edge of Somerset. For one week, with the option to book another if needed.

 

 

 

It was almost Halloween, as we drove in more, heavy rain, to our new accommodation. We left the main road a while back and were now driving down a small country lane, which lead to a long private track. 

The barn was rustic and basic, but plenty big enough for our needs. You entered through a large locked, storeroom, which was filled with a cider press, and boxes of freshly picked apples. The scent of apple was glorious. 

There was a little door at the end, which led to our accommodation. A shower room and toilet lead to a spiral staircase, which took us up to an open plan barn. 

There was a kitchen/dinning area, with a small pine table and chairs. Then a TV, with 2 small lounge chairs. At the end was a king-size bed, next to a little bay window, which had lovely views of the stables, and hilly fields. 

There was a door next to the kitchen area that opened out to a covered decked balcony, overlooking the orchards. 

There was a tiny iron table and chair set, where I spent most mornings. Enjoying my tea and cereal, amongst the damp tree tops.  

The farmer was busy in the pouring rain, we could see him from our window, tending to his sheep on his quad bike, feeding his horses, and gathering more apples to press.

 

 

The neighbouring farm was selling pumpkins, and had a cute display at the end of the lane. Which we walked past during our many rainy dog walks.

When the weather finally cleared, after a few days, we went off exploring. Lyme Regis was only a short drive away and was beautiful. The sun was shining, so we sat and enjoyed a picnic, on the beach.  

We visited Chesil beach, which at first looked wild and deserted. Then we walked around a corner, and saw about 5,000 young families, all with tiny hammers searching for fossils. (Oct half term!)

 

There was a little market town nearby and on Saturday we went to its farmers and flee market. We bought some heavenly, fresh sourdough bread. Olives, local cheeses, and other tasty treats, to take back to the barn. 

 

We were making the most of our new surroundings, and walking at least 15,000 steps most days. (This was just as well considering all the treats!)

 

Then on Monday morning, after the school run, our Daughter returned home to the postman. He presented two letters, for her to sign for.

She rang us straight away, as they were addressed to us and had the Spanish consulate logo on the front.

We were all super excited, as she carefully opened the letters while on the phone. 

We waited silently as she quickly gathered up the first few lines to tell us.

 

It read..We are writing to you, asking for further details, needed to support your recent application for a Spanish visa.

They demanded to receive this information from us, within the next 5 days. Or our visa application would be rejected!! 

 

They required a full year of bank statements printed out, and each individual page must be signed by the bank manager, then stamped with his official stamp! This was for our joint building society account and both our personal bank accounts.

This was not the news we were expecting, and as you can well imagine at this stage of the process sent us into (another!) blind panic.

As both of our personal bank branches had closed down over the past few years, we approached the nearest major branch. This was in Weston Super Mare so we left the dog cosy and walked, with the TV on quietly for company and drove to WSM. 

Luckily they had a large branch of our building society there too.

On arrival we found the bank was closed Thursdays, and discovered all the surrounding local branches had closed down. So we had to drive to Bristol to find one. This was another hour’s drive away.

When we found a branch of our bank, after a long queue, they said they no longer had a printer on the premises, as it was all done digitally.

 

We drove many miles around Bristol, visiting several branches and they all told us the same story.

We drove back to WSM and went to a branch of our building society, where we had to wait an hour for the manager to return. He was brilliant and very helpful when we explained our dilemma, he could see how stressed we both were.

 He took the time  and printed out a huge thick wad of paper statements, then signed and stamped each page for us. (He restored our faith in human kindness)

 

 

We didn’t know how on earth we would get the bank ones done, and get it all to the consulate in time. (Now 4 days).  We drove back to the barn and arrived in the dark. We got told off by the farmer on our arrival for leaving our dog home alone and that he had been howling for the past hour! 

Unbeknown to us the TV in the barn was on a 4 hr timer so it had turned itself off, so poor Watson was in the dark!

 (It had not been a good day!  )

 

We drove the next morning to Torquay, we took Watson with us and planned to go to a large branch of our bank plus visit our Daughter.

 I wasn’t feeling very hopeful as I stood in a long queue in the bank, but after lots of polite pleading, the branch manager was brilliant. I sat in his office for almost an hour while he printed signed and stamped!

 

Then it was my husband’s turn to run around getting his done.  By the end of the day we had all the documents the consulate were demanding, so after a quick visit with our Daughter, we left and headed to Exeter. 

There we handed over the documents, in a large brown envelope to a courier company. We paid to guarantee it would arrive by Friday morning, It was now in the hands of the gods. 

 

We came to the end of our week at the barn, and both decided we needed to move on...

We booked a lovely spacious apartment in Dartmouth. It was just what we needed, lots of lively friendly pubs, cafes and shops and an M and S food, all on our doorstep. Total bliss.

We both felt much happier in Dartmouth, taking in the beautiful views, over the river Dart every day. At the weekend our Daughter and Grandchildren came to visit us ,and we all enjoyed fish and chips together, at rockfish.

 

We booked for a second week, as we were very happy here, plus our vet was close by in Torquay. I was very aware of the 2hr appointment needed, to do the paper work for the animal health certificate, which would hopefully be needed soon.

On  Saturday eve, we decided to have a fancy meal out.  As we sat down with our drinks, and our food ordered, my husband received a phone call, from an  unknown number.

 He took the call, and the look on his face was quite alarming! He took his drink and the call outside.  Turns out it was finally news from our courier company letting us know when our furniture would be arriving in Spain.  Now apparently!!

They were telling him, they had arrived at the storage unit in our little village in Valencia, at 8pm Sat night, and it was closed! (It didn’t open weekends it clearly states online and we gave them all the details months ago!)

My husband rang the owner of the storage business, in sheer desperation and luckily she picked up the call. She was at a family wedding close by, and she offered to go and open the storage unit and let them unload our stuff. What an absolute wonderful person! 

 

Finally during our third week staying in Dartmouth, our Daughter received 2 recorded delivery letters both addressed to us and obviously from the Spanish consulate. 

This was it; she quickly rang us and opened the letters. Inside were both our passports, and no letter or anything with them.

At first we all thought the worst, when our Daughter said wait! 

There is a stamped page in both of the passports that says.....  visa for Spain, valid for 1 yr!

 

 

Two days later, it was a cold and frosty late November morning, (still dark) as we said goodbye to Dartmouth. 

Bikes on the roof and Corgi in the back, we finally      started our Journey to Spain!  

 

Watson at the window of our apartment in Dartmouth...The apple barn Axbridge, Beautiful Dartmouth views!

Blog 5

Bon voyage!... Our Journey to our new life in Valencia, Spain!

 

We drove the 300 miles to the euro tunnel terminal in Kent. This took us just over 7 hrs with a couple of very short stops. We had hoped to sail via ferry from Plymouth to Santander Spain, which was only a 45min drive from Dartmouth, but only last week, the service had stopped for winter! 

 

 

First we arrived at the pet reception, we all got out of the car and stretched our legs, and then we joined a long queue of people and their dogs. Most were show dogs and they were all very well behaved.  We handed a lady, behind the counter the paperwork from our vet, thankfully it was all in order.

Then two ladies, with eight large Afghan hounds, between them, came in. The hounds were jumping about and quite unruly. The place quickly turned into chaos, all the calm and well behaved dogs now all barking. We were glad to get out of there.  

 

Then we drove towards the main tunnel terminal, where we boarded our train.

 We all stayed in the car as the train took us under the English Channel, via a tunnel. It was a little claustrophobic but thankfully after 35mins we arrived in Calais, France. 

 

We drove for a further three hours, just as it was    starting to get dark, we arrived at our overnight accommodation. 

It was one of 6 little motel rooms in a line, with a restaurant serving evening meals and breakfast. It was all set in the grounds of a small private airfield, and in the morning when light, we had a lovely view of the air field. 

The motel was in the village of Somme, which was famous for the battle of the Somme in 1916. Over 300,000 French, English and German soldiers lost their lives. (Unbeknown to us, when we booked)

Unfortunately we didn’t get much sleep, as people were arriving throughout the night and this made Watson bark as he thought he was protecting us from intruders!

 

 

After a good continental breakfast of croissants cheeses and bread, we walked Watson around the    airfield then set off for another full days driving. 

We joined the same road from yesterday and stayed on it for the next 8hrs. 

The views were quite featureless, just very flat fields for hundreds of kilometres, with the occasional small wooden farm structure. 

We stopped at a couple of good service stations, and it was quite exciting to hear people speaking in French.

 The food looked much better than is offered at most British service stations, and we ate some good quality cake and coffee.

 All the savoury options had ham or other meats in, we have both been vegetarians for over 35 yrs, so we were used to this by now (esp. in France.) 

 

Our evening meal last night consisted of ice cold pickles and salad, kindly rustled up by the owner as all his hot main meals had meat in.

 

For the rest of the day we travelled in pouring rain, and again drove until dark. We arrived at our next overnight stay, which was just off, the road we had to join in the morning.

 

We checked in to the small motel and were told that the restaurant was closed on Sunday evenings. No food would be available until breakfast. They were only able to   offer us cans of beer or cola, or a bottle of wine!! 

 So reluctantly(poor Watson!) we all got back into the car and drove around trying to find somewhere open. Everywhere in a 5 mile radius was dark and closed. 

We googled and found a Mc Donald’s open in the next town, so we drove there. They didn’t do any vegetarian food except a breakfast egg muffin, so we ordered 2 each, and a burger for Watson. 

We gave him a little walk, in the rain, then drove back to the miserable motel and bought a bottle of red wine from reception and went up to our very basic room.

 

After an underwhelming continental breakfast, we started our last day of driving through France; as later today we were due to enter Spain via the Pyrenees Mountains.

From the moment we set off it was torrential rain, and it didn’t let up for our whole day’s journey.

It was the hardest driving of our lives; we couldn’t see more than a few feet in front of us, at best.

 

We stopped several times for refreshments, mostly to keep alert, and walked a very reluctant Watson in the rain, so he could toilet. 

 After several more hours on the road we came to a kind of check point, we assumed it was just another toll road, as we drove into a line. 

 I noticed a woman in one of the booths was frantically waving her arms about and pointing to us.        Just in time we realised our bikes on the roof were not going to clear the headroom! 

As the rain was still torrential none of us got out, but we looked over to her with praying hands and big smiles.

 

This we later realized, was us entering Spain, quite unremarkable really. Apart from our near miss of course!

 

 

 The next leg of our journey should have been exciting because we were now in Spain, but we were about to drive over the Pyrenees Mountains. In near apocalyptic weather conditions. 

The spray from oncoming traffic meant we had 0    visibility. As we journeyed further up, the torrential rain turned into hail. 

Back in England while we were planning this journey, I had said several times, we aren’t going to have to drive up any mountain roads are we? No No No always came the reply.

We will drive around the mountains or go through a tunnel don’t worry. (As mountain roads with high drops are my biggest phobia/fear)

When the visibility allowed, I could see a drop of around ½ mile down the mountain, right next to our lane. It was completely terrifying. But we couldn’t exactly turn around, we had to keep on driving, the roads were snaky and bendy to make matters worse.

I later found out that if we had travelled this route just a couple of weeks later, in December, we would of had to have snow chains fitted to our tyres!

We finally arrived at our accommodation; it was down the other side of the mountain, towards the northern Spanish town of Navarra. There were only a few      moments of daylight left, we were all traumatised and utterly exhausted.

 

Thankfully the hotel was a spa hotel (It cost the same as both the French motels) We were greeted with a warm welcome, and within 30 mins of being there, I was taken to a hydro spa which I had all to myself (total bliss). 

When I returned to our room, an hour later, Andrew was sat on the bed, in a thick luxury robe, after a hot shower, watching football on a huge plasma TV. Watson had warmed chicken breast and biscuits bought up to our room. 

Later they bought up wonderful local cheeses, olives and warm fresh bread with local Navarran wines. 

We thought we had died and gone to heaven.  It would seem the French could learn a lot from the Spanish re hospitality.

 

 

 

After a wonderful nights rest and an absolutely exquisite breakfast, we said our goodbyes to the friendly and kind staff, and started the final leg of our Journey.

 After a couple hours on the road the rain completely cleared and blue skies joined us for the rest of the day.

 The scenery was becoming much more interesting, we drove through several wine regions, Including both our favourite Spanish wine, rioja.

 In the distance were huge mountain ranges, peppered with hundreds of wind turbines. The plants were becoming more exotic with desert like cactus and aloes dominating the landscape. 

We kept seeing signs saying Barcelona 500 kms for what seemed like forever, and for hours we felt like we were getting nowhere. Then we saw our first road sign for Valencia!  

 

It was starting to get super exciting as the realisation that we were going to arrive soon, hit us both. 

The closer we drove towards Valencia the greener and lusher the landscape became. As we drove an hour south of Valencia City it started to look subtropical with miles and miles of orange groves. 

The mountains were now covered with rich green     vegetation, and against the bright blue sky, it looked exotic and wonderful. 

 

At last, we saw the sign, and turned off for our little town, we were so excited. We drove past a rice factory, then a large orange juice factory, which had hundreds of crates full of freshly picked oranges, piled up high outside. 

We followed the signs to the old town, where the roads were very narrow. We managed to park near the letting agent’s office and all got out of the car. It felt so warm it was a little overwhelming. We took off our jumpers and walked about in t shirts, just amazing for late November.

 

We collected the keys for our rental, then drove down to the beach.( 2km from the old town) We  sat on the sand, and peacefully looked on at miles and miles of flat white sandy beach. 

A gentle but very warm breeze enveloped us; even Watson had a big smile on his face. 

We had finally made it!

Blog 6

A new life in Valencia, Spain...Cockroaches the size of lobster!!

After 9 months of planning, a couple of months of           nomadic living, waiting for our Spanish visas. Plus the past 4 full days of driving, in near apocalyptic conditions, to get here.  We finally arrive at our temporary new home in our little Spanish town.

We found the cute looking 2 bed town house, from the     letting agents directions and all very excitedly stepped inside.

Unfortunately the place hadn’t been cleaned, since the owners had left at the end of summer. (Now late Nov)

There was thick dust everywhere, and a damp musty smell.  The beds were stripped bare, and I found several dead and living cockroaches about the place! 

After the initial horror I got used to seeing them walking up the white walls. They were quite large, but harmless. But for the first couple of days however, I would open a kitchen drawer and see large pairs of long whiskers    moving, I would scream and quickly shut the drawers.

I managed to find bits of bedding stored about the place to make up our bed. The rental office had closed for the day, but I was planning on giving them a piece of my mind in the morning, as they knew we were due to arrive today and the place was promised to be clean and ready!

Husband set off to buy some supplies from the local store (bread cheese wine!)

And I decided to go and get something from the car. There was no chance of parking near the house, as the road was narrow, plus we were on a sharp bend. So I walked to where we had left the car and grabbed what I needed. 

But then I couldn’t unlock the front door, after several       attempts, with poor Watson inside barking furiously, it was the straw that broke the camel’s back.

 I was exhusted from our long journey and I burst into tears of utter despair. A lady from the house opposite came out and asked in English, if I was ok. 

She went and got her husband, who after lots of attempts finally got the door to open. I was very grateful to them and it felt good to know they were just across the road.

 The husband had mumbled something about squatters, saying I needed to get it looked at asap.

 

 The house had 3 separate steep, open staircases,                  I was pleased we had no young children as they were      terrifying, the third set lead up to the roof terrace. 

It was a small space with terracotta floor tiles and a white washed waist height wall.  

We were quite high up and had views over lots of rooftops, and the beautiful blue tiled dome of the nearby church. (The bells will feature later!) There were a couple of sun chairs, BBQ and a small washing line.

We spent most of the first week relaxing on the roof,        sunbathing in the glorious sunshine. It was around 24     degrees. It was bliss washing all our stuff and having it dry quickly in the sunshine.

 However as soon as the sun went down, (5pm) the         temperature quickly plummeted. You needed a scarf, thick coat and a hat, to be outside, and inside! 

We went and bought an electric heater as the little one there wasn’t cutting it.

The ladies from the letting agency were very apologetic when we spoke with them, they sent some nice ladies round to do a full days cleaning.

 

It was very tricky knowing what to wear, the old town in particular was very traditional and most of the Spanish still living there were elderly. They dressed in darkly coloured winter clothing, boots and thick coats, as they went about the daily business.

 To me it felt incredibly warm during the days, so I would go out dressed for a good British summer’s day. 

This made me stand out like a sore thumb, I would  catch ladies glances, and some fingers pointing. This left me feeling uncomfortable and like an outsider, who wasn’t very welcome. 

 

 I soon learnt most of the Spanish, had relocated to the modern part of town, with its long tree lined paseo lined with benches, cafes and shops.

 Choosing to live in modern apartments with lifts,          air-conditioning and heating. 

The elderly ones remaining in the traditional old town have seen many changes, including lots of English,  Moroccans and gypsy’s Move in. (plus some squatters)

 So I was right about those stares and glances I was getting.

 

Over the next few weeks I went out with darker clothing on and searched my bags for thin, but long sleeved tops, just not to stand out. 

 I am very sensitive and I have always had an affinity to the elderly population, enjoying all their wonderful stories and garnering wisdom from them. 

 I worked with elders in dementia care homes as an     activity coordinator, as well as working in the community, helping elders make positive changes to their local community.

So it felt strange for me not being able to talk to them.       I had learnt a few key words from my online Spanish      lessons, but I was far from being able to hold a             conversation, or even introduce myself.

 

I grew up in South East London, during the late 60s/70s. The Avenue I lived in was filled with elderly widows from WW1/2. To this day I can still  remember all their names.

 There was Mrs Ewing, Mrs Patel, Mrs Brown, Mrs Golightly, Mrs Tribes, Mrs Rogers, Mrs Nutley.

 My favourite was Mrs Griggs, known to me as Griggy.   She was a char lady (cleaner) for several famous actors including Albert Finney’s mother, and dame Judy Dench. 

 I was spoilt rotten by all these ladies as they were       widowed too young to of had children of their own... 

 

 

It was Friday, which was market day, we were both super keen to see it again, as we visited it back in July. 

 When we arrived around 11am, It was in full swing. Dozens of stalls all filled with colourful vibrant fresh produce. 

There was a lively, happy energy, old ladies were keenly filling their large shopping trolleys, ready for the weekend. 

(These trolleys I learned were also used to bash into any legs that got in their way.)  

I happily went about filling my basket with French beans, peppers, tomatoes, avocadoes and garlic. I soon realised that when you purchased a kilo, it would give you enough to feed a small army! But everything was priced per kilo, 

I enjoyed the challenge thinking of ways to use them all up. 

 We had to quickly buy an orange press, as we purchased 10kg of fresh oranges, they were such a bargain. The juice was amazing the freshest and most vibrant of our lives. 

 And even though it was now early December the choice of colourful produce was just amazing.  Orange season had just begun. (Nov-April) The miles of orange groves            surrounding the town were absolutely full of them.

 I have always enjoyed cooking, with a passion. Holidays were spent shopping from markets then cooking wonderful things.  (Mostly in the South of France.)

 So to have access to such great produce was just wonderful. 

Some photos to enjoy, and blog continues below...

 

read more below

Cockroaches the size of     lobsters!... continued

In the old town there are six little bars, five of which are run by English.  We walked into the one nearest our little townhouse. (We sat outside this bar also, when we visited in July.)                             

We received a lovely warm welcome from the owners, and it felt comforting to chat to other English. 

The little bar soon became very busy, it turned out they were showing a new episode of a place in the sun, live on their big TV.

The episode was filmed here in the old town last year.

 The couple from the programme were due to arrive in the bar soon, as guest of honors. They bought the property in the show, and had become regulars at the bar. 

 

We sat surrounded by dozens of English, enjoying   chatting and watching the show together. 

Unfortunately the couple missed the whole event as their flight was delayed. They made it in for drinks, just as the programme finished, everyone cheered as they came in.

 It was quite surreal, especially after all the years we had been watching the programme back in the UK. 

 

We were planning to buy a house in the old town, after being here a few months.

 Any of the properties shown in this latest episode,  would have suited us. They were all very similar to what we had been seeing online for the past 11 months. 

  

 

The following morning we decided to visit several     estate agents, in the main town. 

All of them told us the same thing, there had been an influx of northern Europeans buying up property in the area. Post covid it had gone through the roof. 

People had been viewing online, paying the 10%       deposit (non refundable) to secure, then purchasing properties.                    

All the properties in last night’s programme were sold over 18 months ago!

One of the agents told us to imagine a tree full of fruit, and all that was left were the rotten ones on the floor! (charming!)

Interestingly all the Spanish agents we spoke to strongly advised us against buying in the old town, telling us, there was a problem with gypsies living/squatting homes there!! Also that it was known locally as gypsy town.

 They didn’t ever mention this on a place in the sun!

Personally it is the Gypsy culture of Spain, that I have long admired, being a huge fan of both flamenco    guitar and dancing. 

 

 

It was now the week before Christmas, so we bought our first ever little artificial tree. We were soon to learn that the Spanish had a quiet family meal on Xmas eve and although Xmas day was a  national holiday, the   children didn’t receive their presents then or from Father Christmas! 

They receive their presents on the 6th of Jan and from the three kings! 

 

One afternoon as I was on the roof terrace, a musical marching band came past; dozens of children were    following behind with mothers and grandmothers proudly holding homemade cakes decorated with       ribbons and bows.

 I quickly ran down the 3 flights of stairs, and managed to follow the possession up to the little square. They all continued to play their instruments outside the beautiful blue domed church. 

People were sat outside the bar enjoying the spectacle, in the glorious sunshine.

 

There were already so many cultural differences, that I was starting to notice. When it was pitch dark, on a cold winters night, the little cobbled road outside our front door, was busier than in the daytime. 

Solo elderly ladies, young teens, and families, were walking to and from the church, shops or cafes still at 10pm. 

Most shops close around 2pm and reopened around 6pm staying open late. This is the same for bars, cafes, and patisseries.

 In England our streets were generally empty in Dec after dark, when I was out walking the dog. 

For Christmas Day, I had heard that a large group of people (mostly English) were heading to the beach for a swim. They had put an invite on the local Face book group saying the more the merrier.   

 As it was a lovely sunny morning, we drove to the beach.

We went to the Red Cross area for 11am; we recognised a few faces we had seen from the little bar in the square. A man thanked us all for coming,  then blew a whistle and everyone ran into the sea. 

 Well about half did, with others preferring to watch, with a glass of cava. 

It was around 22degrees in the warm sunshine, the sea felt pretty cold. I overheard someone saying it was 15 degrees, which was the same as the sea temp in July & Aug in Devon!

There must have been around 50 of us, we sat and dried off in the sunshine, and sat watching everyone chat, they all seemed to know one another quite well.

Later we video called all our family, while sunbathing and enjoying several cocktails, on the roof terrace. 

It was definitely unlike any Christmas we had ever known before! 

 

Blog 7

A new life in Valencia, Spain...Barbary Pirates!

We were starting to spend more of our days at the beach. There is a more relaxed vibe there, compared with the traditional town and old town area.

I noticed people were wearing shorts and t shirts and exercise outfits, while enjoying the winter sunshine. The temperature is around 20dc most days. 

There are motor home parks at either end of the long flat sandy beach. When we walked around them they were filled to capacity, mostly with Dutch, German and French all escaping the harsh winters at home. 

The town is divided into three parts, the beach, with private holiday homes, peppered along the sand amongst its dunes. 

 There is a small marina, filled with fishing boats owned by locals, with a beautiful lido, restaurant & bar, looking out to sea.

 At least 6 cafes/bars  are open all year round, plus two little grocery stores, selling  fresh fruit and vegetables, fresh breads, and alcohol, open all year round. Plus a launderette and Tabac. 

There are more bars and restaurants, peppered around the beach area, but these only open in the summer months. There is a small year round             residential community living at the beach area.

As you leave the main beach area there is a flat cycle/walking lane at the side of the main road.      This takes you the 2km into town.      

You walk/cycle past, a tennis club, and several orange groves. 

Later you pass a municipal sports centre with both indoor and outdoor swimming pools.  

The town has a long tree lined passeo running down the middle, which was once the town’s railway.

 The railway used to transport the towns oranges and  other fresh produce, around the country. The town is thriving all year as it is primarily a traditional working town.

 On the outskirts of the town, along with its miles of      orange groves, are several large orange juice           production plants/factories, which are big local employers. 

Since the decline of the railway, the oranges are picked put into plastic crates then loaded into huge trucks then transported throughout Spain and Europe. 

Valencia is known as the garden of Spain, and lots more crops are grown locally, including Avocadoes and rice.

 

The paseo is where the weekly produce market,     fiestas and celebrations are held throughout the year.

The town has mostly traditional type Spanish restaurants, bars and cafes, and most have tables outside on the street. Their is only one small English run shop here. 

There are several really good patisseries, much to my delight as I thought they were only a French thing. 

There are also several little Tabacs just the same as we’ve seen in France. 

Along with every type of useful shop or business you could need. Plus there are 6 supermarkets, (all of which are closed Sundays!) 

 Housing in the town is mostly very high apartment blocks, which have shops and businesses below.  Grander, older apartments can be found down some of the little side streets.

 

The third part of the town is the old town, which is separated from the main town by a very busy road, (which takes you all the way to Alicante.)

As you walk across and up into the old town, you feel transported to a different time zone. It is steeped in history, with large parts being medieval.

 The old town was obviously built before cars, when the narrow cobbled streets were used for donkeys, mules and horses. Several of the larger houses have garages underneath, which obviously were once stables. 

There are half a dozen nice little bars and a small    vintage type general store. All but one bar here is English run.

The sky line, in the old town is dominated by two beautiful blue and gold church domes, and at the top of the town are the ruins of its castle.

 

The site of the castle has wonderful views all the way to the sea. It was used as a lookout for invading       barbary pirates. 

These pirates were Moors who once lived in Spain, but were expelled. They came back fierce, plundering,   pillaging and kidnapping.

 All along the East coast of Spain it is very common for the old towns to be high up and far away from the sea. They would capture locals and use them for slaves in North Africa!

The barbary pirates affected Coastal Spain for many centuries, also attacking it merchant ships.                  

As I stand up here, high above the town, admiring the vast panoramic views, I can hear cockerels crowing, from sunny roof terraces below...

 

New years eve was now upon us, this year after a busy day, and several glasses of vino tinto, we were in bed by 10pm!

At midnight we were rudely woken by very loud and    urgent church bells, like the town was being invaded or some other emergency.

 We had heard them many times during the days, but that was just normal bell ringing. This was constant and went on for over an hour.

 It was so loud it felt like our bed was right underneath the bells!

There was no chance of sleeping, and when the bells   finally stopped, the fireworks went off, like the 4th of July, happy Spanish new year! 

I later found out, on each stroke of  midnight the locals eat one grape, 12 in total, and its back luck for the    coming year if you fail. 

The shops and markets sell out of smaller grapes and only the large ones are left.

Another local quirk turns out to be mandatory parking changes to the other side of the street!

 If you didn’t know this, and left your car in the same road on the same side as you had all year. From 8am 1st Jan, police will tow it away and give you an 80 euro fine.

 All those in the know move their cars early New Year’s day to the other side of the Street.  

However it does make for some interesting                 entertainment watching all the chaos. People hung over running down the road, shouting to police in their dressing gowns.

 Plus with half the cars parked on the new side while dozens are still on the wrong side, no one can get through, its chaos!

 

 Property wise, nothing new had come online, plus the agents were closed for all the festivities. We decided to leave looking again until later in the month hoping things would pick up a little..

It was at last, time for the Spanish children to receive their Christmas presents! Today was the eve of Epiphany which is known as king’s day. (Jan 6th)

 Each year 3 men are chosen from the local            community to dress up as the kings. They are treated like superstars for the day and night.

The day begins with the 3 kings showing up at the marina, a huge crowd awaits them as they arrive.   

They have drinks and mingle with the crowds a while, then their entourage leaves the beach and drives up to the top of the old town (other cars all beeping as they go by) 

There they visit all the elderly residents at the town’s only nursing home. They entertain residents, visiting all the rooms.

The main event happens around 7pm, when a huge procession starts meandering its way through the streets, culminating at the paseo around 9pm. 

huge crowds of people line up all along the route. Cafes and bars have  tables and chairs out in the streets filled with families, enjoying drinks while they wait. 

Children filled the balconies of tall apartment buildings, down both sides of the street. Jumping up and down excited to see the kings and parade, dizzy with excitement to be receiving their gifts in the morning. 

 A cable had come loose and was overhanging the route, some of the floats were very high so they couldn’t risk it. 

The fire brigade had to come and sort it, which held the carnival up for over an hour. It was freezing cold sitting outside, but it was all worth it.

 When the kings float finally came past it was truly   brilliant, they were smoking huge cigars and the    costumes were stunning and opulent.

 This evening made me feel more positive about being here, it felt a privilege to be amongst the Spanish as they celebrated in style.

 

Blog 8

A new life in Valencia, Spain...A Japanese birthday surprize!

The day after Epiphany was my husband’s birthday, January 7th! I had pre booked electric scooters for half a day, in the nearby coastal town of Denia

 It was a gloriously warm sunny day, as we scooted around and explored.

Denia is a beautiful port town, you can catch the ferry to the Balearic Islands from here with your car or as a foot passenger. 

You can do a day trip to Ibiza for around 50 Euros, it takes 2 hours. I think I read it’s over 200 euros with a car.

Denia is very chic and attracts wealthy tourists year round, the fancy yachts moored up here today were huge. 

Its also famous for its wonderful gastronomy,       including its local bright red prawns. Plus amazing seafood in general. 

 It holds a food festival every September, with cookery demonstrations and dozens of food stalls. Showcasing all the wonderful local produce, with the glorious Mediterranean sea as its backdrop!

The views from the modern port area looking back towards the town are stunning with its castle perched right at the top. 

It is steeped in maritime history, with lots of narrow old fishermen’s houses, now mostly restaurants. You can meander through little alleys and lanes, with cafes and bars and shops set in little nooks and squares.

 Everything is very stylish and completely      charming, it reminds me a lot, of places I have    holidayed in the South of France.

As you walk up the main tree lined avenue, with its perfumeries, boutiques and champagne bars. Amongst them are little patisseries where you can sit and watch the world go by. 

We did just this and the people watching was very amusing. With lots of eccentric types walking about. We had a farton, (a Valencian little cake) and a decent coffee, which was a bargain at 3 euros each!    

The Avenue broadens out towards the top end, with shoe shops and more boutiques, ice cream parlours etc then eventually you come to the old town.

Here we found dozens of restaurants, cloth covered tables in long lines, down the narrow streets. Tempting menus all hand written in Spanish/Valencian on large chalk boards, showing the many tapas dishes on offer. 

Smartly dressed Waiters were proudly presenting huge dishes of paella, and pouring wine. The fragrances of garlic and seafood and the clink of wine glasses were completely intoxicating.

 unfortunately my partner doesn’t eat fish and we both do not eat meat!  We couldn’t find any tapas without meat or fish, except the standard potatas bravas!

 So we had to walk away from the glorious food smells still hungry! 

 

Back down towards the bottom of the town we came across a charming half covered and half alfresco food court, Called Les Magazinos.

 It had dozens of little vendors selling high quality street food.

 The choice was again immense, by now it was very busy, as we had arrived at peek Spanish lunch time 2.30pm.

There were huge banana palms and birds of     paradise planted in huge pots, and coloured paper lanterns hanging from the ceiling. Bottles of Cava were popping from tables as we walked passed.

It was a complete feast for the senses, I could see and smell so many different foods to temp me.

 My husband miraculously found 2 empty stalls at a tiny table, in front of a Japanese vendor.

 I mean I adore sushi and all things Japanese!

 We sat and enjoyed some Japanese beers while glancing over the menu...After what seemed to be a very long time, as the menu was in Spanish so everything had to be put into Google translate on our phones! 

He finally chose, some potato and horseradish dish with fresh ginger and lemon grass, It sounded great to be honest, so I just ordered the same.

 

After another beer our food arrived, we are totally starved by now, and what amazing Japanese      delight is before us? 

1 tiny wrinkled (guessing micro waved) Jacket potato each, filled with tuna and maybe with some ginger in there somewhere!

 So as you can imagine I ate both of them, while my very annoyed and sulky hungry husband watched. 

They were the most expensive and underwhelming jacket potatoes of my life!...

 

Once businesses started to reopen after the xmas new year & Epithany holidays, it was time to get some bits of bureaucracy sorted.

It Is a legal requirement that you register with the local town hall,  within three months of arriving in Spain from the UK.

 Also a few weeks later we would be required to get an ID card, from the police station.

 The registering with the town hall was the first part of this process, they call it a padron. 

The town hall was a very grand traditional building, which we had walked past several times since we had arrived.

 It was on the cusp of the old town, very close to the busy road separating it from the main town. 

It had a well manicured little square directly in front of it, with exotic palms, and seasonal red poinsettias, planted all around their trunks. 

We took our passports/visas, and a copy of our rental agreement and went inside. 

A large uniformed and armed serious looking policeman was sitting at reception, who only spoke in Valenciana!

 So unable to even tell him why we were there, we both walked back out again.

 We mentioned this when dropping off our rent a few days later, and the English ladies in there said oh god no don’t try and do that yourselves, you need a Valencian speaking representative. 

 They recommended a nice local Valencian lawyer, who had a wonderful multi lingual speaking          assistant, who was from Yorkshire. 

They got us an appointment the following week. The assistant came with us and spoke to the         officials in Valenciana, and it all got sorted in 15 mins. 

We also needed to open a Spanish bank account, so she escorted us to the local branch of Santander even though it was 1 min till 2pm when they close.

She spoke with a clerk, who could speak English, then said she will look after you, and left us with her. 

We were in there for over an hour, and left with bank accounts open and online accounts with passwords all active.  Pretty amazing service, as they closed over an hour ago. 

Definitely a case of who you know!

 

I was now desperate to get my hair done. It had not been done since Dartmouth and my grey roots were about an inch long, not a great look. We had a tiny salon right opposite our town house.

 Sometimes when I was on the roof sunbathing, women would hang all the salon towels to dry on the line, and peer over at me.  I was sure that they all probably had been discussing the stupid English lady, sunbathing on the roof, in her pants and vest in January! 

 

After several attempts with Google translate, I managed to write out exactly what I would like done. I made a bit of an effort with my hair and makeup, long sleeved top and jeans, and went across to the salon. (feeling brave!) 

As I walked in everyone stopped and fell silent, just staring at me, first at my head, and then straight to my feet, including all the customers, even in the chairs at the sinks.

 

 I showed the young women who was sent over to talk to me, my phone and she went off and got the appointment book.

 She was kind and helpful and we managed to sort it out, mostly by pointing at the days/times on the page. 

 Slowly the chatter started up again and all eyes were off me.

 I left feeling, half very pleased with myself and half terrified that I was going back in a few days! 

 

I later was to learn that the locals esp the elderly, speak Valenciana.  So my few basic newly learnt words of Spanish and the translator wasn’t always helpful!

 

I read that during the Franco dictatorship, (which only ended in the mid 1970, s) It was forbidden to use regional languages throughout Spain. Franco would only allow Castile Leon, (the Spanish we learn and recognise, from central Spain.) 

Apparently he was paranoid they were plotting against him using languages he couldn’t understand.

 So I totally respect and understand why regions which had been fiercely independent of each other for centuries, would today like to freely use their regional dialects.

The Catalonia region of Spain including Barcelona, the Canary and Balearics islands, speak in Catalan, and teach it in their schools

 The Valencian province primarily teaches Valenciana in all its schools and Spanish as a 2nd language.     

Knowing this made sense of the times, I had walked into a cafe or patisserie, and in my best    pigeon Spanish asked for my order.                       Only to be met with a reluctant and bemused look, from the busy assistant. 

It was all quite daunting for the first couple of months, but slowly I managed to win most of them over. 

Once they recognised me and I always gave them a big smile, and offered to carry my tray across the road to my table, when they were very busy etc.

It was a lovely feeling after a few months of being here, being greeted with a warm smile. 

The more they would see me try to use my Spanish, the more patient they became, with me. 

There was even some laughter! 

 

 It is the day of my hair appointment, once again, as I enter, everyone in the building silently stares, first at my face, then my shoes. 

I get seated by the same young women, and I wait for what feels like an hour. Thank god I have my phone to stare at (although I stupidly forgot my readers so I couldn’t see much more than A blur!)

Everyone was busy and the chatter and occasional laughter is loud. For a tiny space it is filled to the max with customers and staff. 

As I sat waiting I felt a bit lonely and like I’d just landed on a different planet.

 Then the owner of the salon walks towards the door, and then at the last second she swoops in very close to me and tries to get a look, at what I am looking at on my phone.

 It was quite a shock at first I thought she had tripped and was going to fall onto me.

 (Later I learn the Spanish have a very different idea of spatial awareness than we do, more on this later!)

I felt like she wanted to see what I was looking at on my phone. It felt like a strange  invasion of my personal space.

 Then she said my name and pointed to the chair at the sink, so I went over and sat there. The young women washed my hair, then coloured and blow-dried it. I was very pleased with the end results. 

I do go back a few more times, plus I take my Daughter in, when she is visiting. But that is another story all of its own, I will tell you later!  

 

 .

Blog 8

My new life in Valencia, Spain...A bit third world!

It was now mid January and several traditional fiestas were taking place around the old town.

As we were walking around Friday morning, we saw traders setting up stalls, and the triangle no parking signs had been dotted around the little narrow roads. The signs had written on them, Medieval market.

I looked on the local face book group and found out it was here from Friday eve through till Sunday.

 So we wrapped up and went out about 7pm. It was all light up and looked so pretty with fairy lights dotted all about the stools. We enjoyed looking around     some were selling cocktails, some jewellery and homemade crafts etc. 

Some were promising delicious food, but they were all still setting up. 

The little bars had people sat outside, all wrapped up with thick coats and hats. We came across a bar we hadn’t been in yet. We managed to squeeze ourselves onto a table, and quickly got chatting with a lady who had lived in the town for 26 yrs! 

She was English but had lived in NZ for many yrs.    She was good fun and a fountain of knowledge about the local area, and told us about some more local   fiestas taking place over the weekend.

 It was so cold, around 3 degrees, So we went for a walk about to keep warm. The food stalls were now in full swing. 

We bought some mulled wine and a bag each of hot roasted chestnuts. Then we couldnt resist some hot roasted corn on the cobs, which were blissfully     dripping with butter! 

Then we went home to keep Watson Company.

 

The next day, the roads just around the corner from the medieval market were also closed off to any traffic, and several triangle road signs had now appeared reading, feast of St Antony! 

 

Dozens of Long tables, with hundreds of chairs were set up in rows down several narrow roads.

These little roads all joined a larger road that was filled with a long line of giant cooking pots, like huge witches caldrons. 

They all had fires lit underneath them and each pot had around 5 men, gathered round them. 

Some were proudly stirring the caldrons with long sticks, some were chopping huge piles of onions and others were chucking in hunks of wild boar, rabbit and other game that was hunted by locals for the            occasion. (Def not vegetarian friendly)

It was all quite a sight to behold. Groups of older ladies lined the area with stalls giving away hot chocolate and homemade cakes.

 The English were generally all sat watching the    spectacle from outside the little bar on the corner, which was bursting at the seams.

The sun shone all afternoon, and over 4,500 servings of the stew were served. (A bit like feeding the 5,000 from the bible) 

As we walked home, we noticed a beautiful display at the end of the road. It was cordoned off with rope and inside were sacks of rice, large vats of olive oil and several crates of oranges.

 It was decorated and made pretty with fresh flowers and little gold statues of angles.

 I later read the locals were giving thanks to god for a bountiful crop. And the sharing of the stew was part of this beautiful tradition...

     

I had been noticing since our arrival here, that whenever I popped into a little cafe or patisserie, on my own, I would see the assistant (almost always older women) peer out from behind their counters to get a good view of my footwear as if judging me by them.

 I would try and ignore it, but sometimes our eyes would meet and they would hold a stare. 

My husband said I was just imaging it, but I knew I wasn’t, as it had happened in the hairdressers too.

Then one Sunday morning we went along to a market we had seen advertised online. It was about 30 mins drive away, and it was known as the Rastro. 

As we got near we could see a massive market lined up along the length of the very wide and busy road. 

Cars were double parked on both sides and crowds of people were attempting to cross over, in front of us. (Which is exactly what did 10 mins later, once parked over the other side)

We started at the bottom end of the long line of stalls, the first 50 or so were filled with fresh fruits and      vegetables. I noticed as we walked past they had   different items than we get at our Friday market, this was more ethnic, a huge range of fresh chillies for      example. 

 The Spanish are not keen on hot foods or spice,    much preferring sweet paprika, nutmeg, and saffron.

 I bought some multi coloured chillies and several huge bunches of herbs, basil, mint & coriander.

 Then a few plant stools caught my eye, offering a vast selection of very tempting Mediterranean plants.         It was so busy it was hard to see everything,              especially on both sides as we walked through the middle.

Music from different countries could be heard blaring from radios. 

All of a sudden wonderful aromas from all the hot food, hit you. Dozens of whole chickens were cooking on large rotisseries, set up on a large truck. 

Churros and empanadas all being cooked before your eyes. Long ques of people all patiently waiting, keenly watching the vendors dishing up and serving those before them. 

Dozens of Plastic tables and chairs, set out on both sides, were full of people chatting and enjoying their warm fresh treats, which were being washed down with strong coffee or bottled beer.

As we walked further along, the stools became more dominated by Moroccans/Arabs, along with some gypsies. The stools were now starting to look like something from the third world, everything and anything was spilled out onto the floor.  

 Glass ware of all colours, ancient tools, vintage toys, old shoes. Clothing, small items of furniture, mirrors, jewellery, old kitchen ware. Tons of old pots and pans  now lined the floor, on both sides. 

With all the Arabic music playing it felt like we’d been transported to Marrakesh. 

There was so much stuff it made you eyes dart about so fast, as not to miss some treasure.  The sheer volume of people walking, in both directions, meant you were easily swept away faster than you had hoped. 

The banter was happy and light and the traders all seemed very proud of the wares they offered.

I felt totally safe, so we split up for a while. I am like a moth to the flame, with plants, and I remembered passing several plant stools earlier, so I headed back towards them. (No easy thing!)

 I finally saw the tops of tall fruit trees, so knew I was close. 

There were dozens of fruiting lemon trees, huge      banana plants, birds of paradise, and tons of cactus, all shapes and sizes.

 As well as rows and rows of Mediterranean herbs, all so vibrant and perfect looking. I was in heaven, and hoped to come back and buy one of the purple flowering bougainvillea, once we had a home! 

But for now I settled for a spider plant and a medium sized cactus. 

I looked up the species later when back at the rental, it was called a Mexican fencepost.  Due to its super fast growth to tremendous heights! They use it for edging boundaries in Mexico, So it won’t be long in its small pot by the sounds of it! 

 I gave all of my beloved garden/house plants to friends and family, as it is strictly forbidden to bring any to Spain. (Quite a wrench!)

So I was feeling very happy with my purchases today. 

 

When I met up with my husband a while later, he told me he was interested in buying some vintage T shirts.  When he had asked for the price, the Trader looked straight down at his feet. 

Finally agreeing with me that he had been judged by his shoes!! 

 

Blog 8

A new life in Valencia, Spain...An apartment at the beach!

We cycled to the beach today, it took about 20 minutes. Once across the main road into the town, there is a cycle path that takes you around the edge of all the shops and cafes. Then it joins the main long straight path, to the beach. 

The sun was shining gloriously with not a cloud in the sky. It was around 20 degrees, great for mid Jan!

The off white sand, with the shimmering blue Mediterranean Sea, looked like a dream. 

We enjoyed a 10,000 step walk along the sand, there was hardly anyone else around. Just a few tiny sand piper birds, running along the sand in front of us, It felt like paradise.

On the way back we stopped at burger king, as it was right opposite the cycle path, plus most little  bars and cafes were closed for Jan. 

We sat outside in the sunshine eating our veggie whoppers, when after a few moments we became surrounded by wild cats.

We offered them some of our burgers, but none of them were very enthused with the idea of eating soya. They also refused our chips, so thankfully they couldn’t have been starving. 

We noticed a derelict restaurant opposite which had several plastic bowls filled with dried cat food and   water, so someone was looking out for them. 

I was starting to understand that Spain generally has a different culture regarding its animals. (More about this another time)

 

That evening while sat in the town house, sharing a bottle or two of wine. We were looking online checking if any new properties had come on.                           There was this apartment at the beach! 

The photo of it was taken outside and opposite looking back to its large balcony, and Jade green tiled building.

As soon as I saw it I felt omg imagine if we could live at the beach. But never in a million years did we ever imagine or consider living in an apartment. 

All those months back in the UK we had our minds set on a traditional Spanish town house. Mostly because they were so affordable, from around 60 thousand euros.

 The houses at the beach were much more expensive, with some beachfront going for over a million.

The apartment was on with a local Spanish agency, one we had yet to visit. The next morning after giving Watson his walk, we popped in to introduce ourselves.

 The owner could only speak English about as well as we could speak Spanish, so there was lots of phone translating and drawing and pointing going on. 

Apparently the elderly owner had passed away leaving  the apartment along with several other properties to her 3 sons. 

The eldest son insisted on being present for any viewings, so we had to wait until he was available at the weekend. 

The agent suggested taking us to view 2 other apartments at the beach, which she had the keys for.

We were not very keen on either of them, to be honest, but we thought we may as well.

We drove down with her and went inside to look at both apartments. They were both in the same building, 1st floor and 2nd floor.  (2nd being the top floor, nothing above). 

Our hearts sank a little when inside, as they were cold, musty, and both over filled with dark vintage heavy furniture, (filling almost all the space).

 Both their balconies were small and completely over looked from every angle by close neighbours.

The agent told us this is what the Spanish love, as they as very sociable.

Later when back at the town house, we both felt     deflated, and started thinking the whole apartment idea was totally ridiculous.

So when Saturday morning came along, we weren’t very excited to view the apartment.

 

Because of the high risk of squatting empty homes in Spain, they don’t give out the address of the property to you. 

We did cycle around the area several times over the past few days, trying to see it ourselves but we couldnt find it.                                                                  

We walked to the agents office and she drove us to the viewing.

We climbed up the exterior stairs to the 2nd floor apartment, which was the top floor.

The eldest brother was sat on the balcony at a large wicker table, we both shook his hand, he spoke in Spanish/Valenciana to us, which we didn’t understand a word of.

 Thankfully he left us to be shown around with the agent, the apartment still had lots of  dark vintage furniture around the place, but straight away the    layout was very different from the other two.

The dominating room was the large square living room, in Spain it is called the salon.

It had 3 wood framed patio doors, and the views were wonderful. There was a large villa, below with a nice vegetable garden, filled with fruit trees, directly in front, so it wasn’t overlooked at all. 

From the living room you could see the tops of dozens of exotic type palms, and several mountain ranges in the distance. The balcony was much larger too. 

Straight away I could see our two loungers at one end, a large dining table in the middle and plenty of room for some large planters.

I imagined the apartment completely empty of all the old ladies furniture and belongings, and I could      imagine all ours in there.

 I could see how the place could easily take on a much lighter contemporary look.

Fortunately the exterior of the building had been freshly painted white, plus the whole inside of the apartment as well.

There were 3 large double bedrooms, the main one shared the same views to the mountains and palms. Two bathrooms, one with a shower, bath and toilet, the other shower, sink and toilet.

The only let down was the small kitchen, it looked    untouched since 1979 when it was built, and it had an oven running from a large orange gas bottle. 

The brother showed us the utility room, joined at the end of the kitchen. Until recently it was another small balcony, his mum had 3 huge sets of sliding double glazed windows, fitted, and a new washing machine, and larger sink area installed. 

They used the room to dry the washing in, and not put it on the main balcony. They close the door to the     kitchen, open the windows and the breeze dries it on an airer super quick. 

The apartment also came with the option to purchase an up and over garage, underneath. This would be the only way we could make living there work, to store our bikes, paddleboard and general stuff.  

It had its own private parking space!  It was also in a prime position, 1 small residential road behind          restaurants, a shop, some bars, and a 2 mins stroll to the beach. (The grandkids would approve!)

That evening we were both super exited. We started making a list of questions we wanted to ask them, and we emailed the agent to arrange a 2nd viewing!..

 

The next day (Sunday) was another local fiesta in the old town. Yet again the triangular road signs were  dotted about the little roads. This time written on them was, the blessing of the Animals!

We had no idea what it was all about, but we headed out, mid morning, with Watson. 

As we got to the same area that the caldrons were, last weekend, we started to see more than the usual dogs and owners out and about.

 We passed poodles with pom poms in their hair,     chihuahuas in Jackets and bow ties. A little boy proudly showed us his little hamster in its cage.

 Bigger dogs, several cats in prams! Even a man with a cockerel under his arm. There was a feeling of           excitement and fun in the air, more so than at last week’s fiestas. 

Stools were handing people free cups of hot chocolate and little cakes, to help keep everyone warm. It was a cold bright January morning, but the narrow streets were mostly shaded from the sun, as most of the town houses were very tall. 

A beautifully adorned horse, pulling a cart, filled with fresh spring yellow flowers came past.

 We followed it and watched several men carefully lift the massive floral display from the cart, up onto a raised platform, in the middle of the long widest street.

It was starting to get much busier, and lines were forming, both sides of the street, with the aim of being as close to the platform as possible.

 Soon a priest appeared dressed in long golden robes, several people went up and talked with him.  

Then all eyes moved to the end of the street where a man   suddenly appeared on a roof, he was dressed quite scruffy and smoking a cigarette. 

He walked out onto a thin ledge and with great       purpose he pushed a giant gold bell. Its chimes were heard all over the old town.             

He kept pushing all his weight against the bell every 10 seconds or so, for around 5 mins. A health and safety nightmare really, I was glad when he got down to be honest.

All of a sudden a little walking band, playing clarinets, flutes, and drums came from around a corner leading a huge possession of people all with their pets. 

They arrived to where the priest was standing on his raised platform. 

Each person, in the very long line, took a turn in presenting their beloved animals. The priest anointed each of them with his holly water, then said a few words.

It was wonderful to watch, we saw parrots on shoulders, dogs of all shapes and sizes, cats in pushchairs, on leads, in arms. Mice, hamsters and ferrets in cages, several cockerels under the arms of burly men. (Cock fighting is a big tradition with local gypsies)  

 

We decided to drop Watson back to the house, as he didn’t know if he was coming or going with it all.

We were trying to squeeze through one of the quieter little roads, to avoid the crowds and the long queues. 

Then coming straight towards us, was a huge bull with large horns, happily being led by a young girl with a thin rope! 

Behind the bull were dozens of adorned show horses, then a possession of working horses all pulling carts. Being led to get blessed! 

 

Blog 8

A new life in Valencia, Spain...Disney or ducks!

  Today we had the 2nd viewing of the apartment at the beach. This time we met the agent outside the property and the eldest brother wasn’t present.

 We felt more relaxed looking around this time, opening all the dark wood louvered shutters, and windows in the bedrooms.

 Also the dark wood framed patio doors; we opened all three and folded them completely to one side leaving a huge open plan room onto the balcony (teresa).

The apartment was south west facing and got the sun from rising around 8am until around 2pm.

The agent assured me that during the summer months coming back from the beach for lunch in the shade would be ideal, and if it was still full sun we would have to invest in several awnings for shade.

We had a long list of questions written down, all translated into Spanish via our Google app.

I asked about the other owners of the building as there were 2x ground floor apartments, 2 x 1st floors and 2 x 2nd floors.

 She told us that there was a good all year round    community here, the apartment joining this one, had a young professional Valencian couple living there all year round. 

The large house and gardens below us was owned by a family who owns a local orange juice factory.

She knew two of the apartments below were owned by French families, the other two were local families from the town. 

It was fascinating to learn from her that it was very common practice for families in the area to own     multiple properties. That they would have a town house, or apartment on the passeo, which they would spend the winter months in. 

They would also own apartments at the beach and from April to Sept/October they fully relocated to live in them.

A high number of local people, like the old lady who owed this apartment, had three properties, 1 in the old town, 1 passeo, 1 the beach. The agent told us that it was tradition for local people old and young, to          literally holiday 2km away from their home, here at the beach every summer. 

I later read more about this and apparently it goes back to the Franco dictatorship, (ended 1975) he gave the people free land to build holiday homes any where they choose. He was hugely opposed to foreign     tourism, and by doing this I supposed he thought he could keep the Spanish happy holidaying locally.   

She also told us that the locals hardly ever sell these properties, preferring to hand them down to family. She said it was quite unusual that this family were choosing to sell. 

She also said that this was predominantly a Spanish region, and that most of the houses and apartments esp., at the beach area were either owned by Spanish locals or wealthy Spanish families from Madrid, who would own their vacation homes here.

There are no guest houses and only one hotel at the main beach, which is a sports hotel and its fully booked all year. Spanish children come for sailing, beach volley ball, swimming and other sporting activities. 

 

There is also only one hotel in the main town area also. It is one of the very few coastal areas in the country, that have yet to be overrun by non Spanish.

In the 1980,s they declared this stretch of coast as a nature reserve. Lots of different species of birds make their homes in the beach dunes. 

This for now, has remained a clever way to keep       developers away...

 

Later when back at the rental, we had lots of information swimming around our heads, but we were both in agreement that we wanted to put in an offer. 

We emailed the agent in the morning with our offer, it was around 15% less than the asking price, we said as the kitchen needed completely reforming plus no air con etc.

They made us wait over a week for our reply! The agent said that the whole family had to meet to       discuss our offer. Finally we heard back and our offer was declined.

 We were disappointed, but mostly that it took them a whole week to reply.  After watching all those         episodes of a place in the sun, when they get back to them within minutes, closely followed with the celebratory drinks!   

 

They had also stated that they wouldn’t sell for any less than 5% off the asking price..

 

We took Watson for a long walk, and we both mulled everything over. We walked around a nature reserve,   it was only 5 mins away in the car.

It was quite over run with tall bamboo and pampas grasses, but it was surprisingly green and it felt good being in the countryside.

 It opened up to a wide body of water, where we spotted a heron and a cormorant, amongst the tall grasses

 As we walked further we came across loads of flooded fields, which I later read were rice fields.     Rice is still commercially grown here today, although a fraction of what they did in the past.

 There is a large rice processing factory on the outskirts of the town, which we have driven past many times without even giving it a thought, that it may be grown so locally.

The bulk of local rice is now grown just outside Valencia City where there are miles of rice fields. you can get little boat tours around them and find many little bars close by selling paellas made using the rice. 

Everyone knows paella to be a popular Spanish rice dish, but it originates here in Valencia.  

I read later that it is close to a religion to the Valencian people, it can only be served for lunch never dinner.

Every home has a massive battered well used Paella dish proudly hanging up. Traditionally the dish would be rice, with whatever meats that could be gathered, Frogs, snails, rabbits, wild boar.

During the Spanish civil war 1936/1939 people grew so hungry they would even put sparrows and other little birds in their paellas. The Spanish Civil war was the bloodiest conflict in Western Europe, since the end of WW1 in 1918.

 

I also read much to my amazement, that Walt Disney has ancestry roots in this area, and the                        corporation desperately wanted this site for its Euro Disney Park, before settling for the outskirts of Paris. (Which opened in 1992)

 

 After turning down several eye watering offers from Disney, local government declared the area as a       heritage and cultural site. Also it is now a nature       reserve, it’s a popular site with international twitchers.

Many rare species of birds esp water birds, visit and nest in the rice fields, throughout the year.

Like the beach, this is a good way to protect the area from any future developers.  

 

As we were walking back to the car we stopped to    admire a huge flock of geese, they were in a large formation which circled around several times, shaped like a giant arrowhead. 

They all landed, disappearing from our view. It made me wonder where they had all journeyed from and how many miles they had all flown. 

I felt very grateful that they had this beautiful habitat to feel safe and rest up.  

 

 

Blog 9

A new life in Valencia, Spain...Mohamed and the three brothers!

So we made a counter offer, around 10% off the asking price. The vendors had said they wouldn’t accept less than 5% off, but this was our absolute final offer, as it was stretching us further than we really liked.

As soon as we emailed our offer, we went on a daytrip to take our minds off it. Last time they took a week to get back to us. 

We drove an hour south along the coast to a Beautiful town called Javea/Xativa.

We walked along the whole length of the prom, starting from the little marina at one end with huge rock face directly behind it. 

The marina was filled with fishing boats and a few day-trip cruise vessels, rather than the huge fancy yachts we saw in Denia. 

As we walked along we saw a large building with a sign outside saying fish market. We had Watson with us so I resisted going in on this occasion, but I absolutely adore all seafood. 

We walked past a long line of restaurants all with tables outside looking out to sea. They had boards filled with fresh fish dishes to temp you back later for lunch.

 The beach was craggy and rocky, contrasting to our flat sandy beach. The sun was shining brightly and the sea was the most amazing turquoise, graduating to navy as the waters grew deeper.

 It was totally mesmerising, I didn’t remember the sea ever looking more beautiful. 

We walked further along until the restaurants and brassieres ran out and the coast line became even more rugged.

 In the distance we could see a large chiringuitao on the beach, which is a structure built on the beach. The Mediterranean isn’t tidal.  

As we got closer it looked very impressive, like an open fronted Bedouin tent. With pristine white canvas sides, gently flapping about in the breeze and wooden deckling painted in coastal shades.

There were huge planters filled with palms and other exotic plants. Moroccan shaped mirrors dotted about, and an immaculate long bar, stocked with high end Gins and other colourful mesmerising bottles.

The floor had a few sea grass rugs scattered about. 

We sat in a very low seated couch, facing out to sea. Enjoying fresh mint tea, and sticky almond pastries, it was total bliss. 

While sat here, feeling happy and relaxed, we received an email, saying our offer for the apartment had been accepted!..

 

 

We had already found a great local lawyer, so we asked her to help us purchase the apartment. She looked into any annual building fees, glanced over the deeds, and buy the end of that week, she told us two weeks and it would be ours!

Two weeks! In England this was unheard of, we         decided on three to give us bit more time. 

We asked her to tell the vendors, we wanted them to clear out the apartment, as it was still filled with their Mothers furniture and things.  

 Not to seem rude but to explain that we had all our own furniture shipped from England, and it was in local storage. 

A few days later she rang saying our request was flatly turned down, and the apartment would only be sold with the old ladies furniture and belongings in! 

We went along to speak with the estate agent. She had quite a good repour with the family, so we asked her to speak with them on our behalf.  

Once again the family refused to leave the apartment empty for us. The agent could tell we were disapointed and as not to lose the sale, she said she knew a Moroccan man with a van who would be able to clear the apartment, for 200euros.

 She also explained that it was very normal for Spanish to sell their property, still filled with a           deceased family member’s belongings. Apparently they could not bear to go through it or throw it away.  

 

Two weeks later, the morning our monies were           forwarded to the family, our estate agent met Mohamed and his team outside the apartment at 10.am. 

She instructed them to completely empty the       property. She had asked us to come along at 12.00 midday, with the cash to pay them.

When we walked up the driveway we could see a ropey old van parked alongside the apartment, and huge piles of stuff laying on the pavement.

Items were being thrown down from top floor as we stood there! God knows what the poor neighbours must have thought. They must have known the lady as a friend, and were now seeing  all her personal items chucked everywhere.

When we went up, there were drawers from several cabinets, piled high. They were filled with table linens, sewing kits, family games, photos, plates cutlery, glasses, ornaments, bedding, half drank bottles of spirits. 

Basically the old ladies personal items from the past 40 years.  

We thanked Mohamed and his small team, paid him and left them all to it.

 The following morning we went to the towns notary office, it was very grand. Both our lawyer and estate agent met us there.            

 We were all escorted into a room with a large square table. There sitting around the table were the three brothers, with their wives, (not our favourite people right now!) 

It was quite awkard, the notary finally came in and joined us, a few words were said, our lawyer translated for us. We all took it in turns to sign the contract, then given the keys to the property and everyone shook hands..

 

We drove straight to the apartment, it had been fully emptied, but it was now filthy and dusty.

I bought mops, buckets, cleaning products etc and spent a couple hours giving it a good clean, while my husband met the man with a van (we had found on the local face book group) at the storage unit, where our furniture was stored. 

 

I was just sat on the floor admiring the clean apartment, and the views. When the men pulled up outside. I was super excited to see all our stuff again, as it was almost 6 months ago we had boxed and wrapped it all.

It turned out that the man with the van, who we had arranged to help us move in, had a gimp leg! So he called for back up! 

Both men were English with good senses of humour, we helped bring everything up together, I did all the lighter boxes, with two flights of steps it was quite a workout.

Finally after several hours, it was all done; we paid the men and thanked them both.

 My husband managed to get our bed set up; while I went round reading all the labels I had hand written on each box months before.

 It was so exciting opening them and seeing our      precious beloved things again.

Our furniture worked perfectly in the apartment, as our previous home had a coastal theme throughout. We both worked really hard making it reasonably cosy, for our first night. 

Finally around 9pm, we sat drinking wine and eating takeaway pizza, absolutely exhausted. But it was so exciting, and we could hardly wait to sleep in our own cosy super king size bed again.

 Let alone to wake up in our new home!  

 

Blog 9

A new life in Valencia, Spain... A short but hard Winter!

We decided to get the kitchen done straight away, as it was the original, from when the apartment was built in 1979. The cooker ran off a large orange gas bottle and the cupboards were made out of thin hardboard!

Our estate agent had recommended a local man, back when we viewed, so we gave him a call. He could speak good English, and came to start the work within a couple of weeks.

We used one of the bedrooms as a kitchen.  We had a small camping stove, a little table, one set of cutlery, a plate and cup each. The other spare bedroom was still full with boxes, (mostly filled with kitchen stuff.) 

The kitchen was tiny, so we thought it would only take a couple of weeks. But we soon realised it was going to be much longer!..

 The men would arrive around 8am then leave for almuerzo at 10am. 

This is a Valencian mid morning snack, usually           consisting of beer or wine, a bowl of monkey nuts, served still in their shells, followed with a huge hearty sandwich made with half a baguette. 

Filled with egg tortilla, cold meats, cheeses, several pickles etc. Or with hot meats/stew and gravy.                 It is like a religion, for the whole Valencia region. Everything halts, and all little cafes and bars are full.  

They would arrive back around midday, and then leave for lunch at 1.45.                           

 For the Spanish, lunch is a big deal. It includes       multiple courses with wine. Most cafes, bars and     restaurants offer their menu Del dia (menu of the day.)

This consists of a starter, main and dessert, with wine. The price is around 10/15 Euros. They keep costs down by offering one pot meat stews or dishes like liver and onions etc.

 After the long hearty lunch, it is traditional to take a    siesta. Most shops and businesses in this and many surrounding towns, close from 2 and reopen at 5.30pm.

I have heard about professionals (dentists etc) working outside of their home towns, renting small apartments, which they use just for their siestas.

So more often than not, we wouldn’t see our workmen again until the next morning!..

 

It was now early February, and winter decided to      arrive, and it was freezing. The mountains we could see from our balcony, were now covered with snow.

We had to go and buy another little heater and a         seriously thick winter duvet, heavier than any we had used in the UK.

Our apartment like most houses in Spain, is not             insulated. Once the winter sun went from our balcony around 1pm, I was very glad I bought my thick winter jumpers and sheepskin boots, from the UK.

 I was now wearing them every afternoon and      evenings, along with a hat and thick scarf (inside!)  

 After several weeks, the kitchen still looked like a   building site. Thick plaster dust inches deep, was on everything. The men worked with all the large kitchen windows wide open all day, to let the dust out?         This made the whole apartment freezing cold. 

The following week we both went down with flu/Covid? (Fevers, headaches, severe coughs)

Fortunately my husband was only rough for a few days, but I was ill for two whole weeks.

 

One morning, as I was in bed shivering, wearing lots of layers, and a bobble hat, almighty loud banging     started. After several moments, a large hammer came straight through the bedroom wall, and I could see the builder peering through a large hole at me! 

By the end of the morning they had come through the wall in 3 different places! I didn’t know whether to laugh or cry. I was mortified that they could see me sweating with fever from my bed, more than anything else.

 

A couple of weeks later, when I was feeling much   better, it was time for one of Valencia’s biggest fiestas.  The Fallas, where all the different brotherhoods in the town, spend months constructing huge models, some as tall as buildings. 

They would all be placed around the town, and then judged. Then on the eve of the judging, one by one they would be set alight! This would go on well into the early hours of the next morning.

The week leading up to the festival, all you can hear are firecrakers. Two porter cabins appear on the lower part of the paseo, selling them in all shapes and sizes.        

The kids proudly store their collections in long wooden boxes, which they carry around. It is also tradition to dress in faux peasant costumes.

Every open concreted space at the beach, old town squares and main town paseo, has dozens of kids      setting them alight. 

The bangs are really really loud. Its quite amusing watching some unsuspecting person walk past, then jump with fright, when they go off.

In Fact we were sat having lunch outside, in the     sunshine, watching a couple of youngsters having great fun. Chucking them on the ground terrorising the pigeons, when an elderly man, who was dressed very dapper indeed, strolled past.

 All of a sudden a large burning ember landed in one of his trousers turn ups. He started hopping about and frantically slapping the bottom of his leg.

He shouted at both kids, made them cry, then the     parents sat next to our table, had to get their wallets out and compensate him!

We cycled into town to look at the fallas models. They were works of art, huge and bright and colourful. It was like a trail, finding each one across the old town and main town area. We had a couple at the beach too. 

On the night of the fallas, it was like armageddon,     hundreds of kids and excited fathers were chucking fireworks and bangers every where you looked. It was like a war zone, glad we left Watson home.

The bars and cafes had tons of extra tables and chairs outside, and they were all full. The noise and thick fog from all the gunpowder was insane.

Around 8pm they set ablaze some of the smaller      models, then around 11pm They started with the full size ones.

we watched several of them as they were set ablaze. 

Each one was attached to a long string of firecrackers, which they lit the end of, then you could hear each one bang loudly as they jumped along and caught the model ablaze.

There were hundreds of people watching, and some of the models were over 20ft high and very close to buildings and apartments. The flames were huge, the bombers (firemen) were standing by each one with hoses ready just in case.  

Each town in the province has their own Fallas festival, in March, with the biggest one in Valencia City.           (You can see some footage on you tube). 

The Spanish sure know how to celebrate, it was           absolutely brilliant...  

  

The kitchen was finally finished after 12 very long, weeks. It felt so good to have the apartment back to ourselves. But it was only two days before our    Daughter was due to stay.

 I spent hours cleaning the thick dust away, before I could put all our things inside the new cabinets and cupboards.

 I was still making the spare bedroom look pretty and nice for our daughter, while my husband picked her up from Alicante airport. We had been using her room as a kitchen, for the past 3 months!

 

We both decided not to get any more work done on the place. Both bathrooms are quite retro, but we would just learn to love them.

 I think it will take us years to get over the kitchen experience. 

 

 

Blog 10

A new life in Valencia, Spain...Easter and Orange Blossom!

It was wonderful to see our Daughter; she had flown from Costa Rica, where she had been managing a surf and yoga retreat for the past 6 months. She managed to squeeze a quick visit in before starting a new job in NZ, the following week!

We were all enjoying a peaceful relaxing time together, although her visit happened to fall over the Easter holiday.  Which I had read, was a huge deal for the Spanish. 

We decided to walk to the old town on good Friday, our Daughter hadn’t seen it yet, and we planned to show her the views from the castle and have a couple of drinks, at our favourite little bar in the square.

It was very entertaining, as we sat enjoying our drinks. people were going in and out of the church, and     several policemen were directing traffic and looked  very stressed. 

They were trying to close off the road. The usual little triangle road signs where dotted about, asking no cars to be parked here from 8am this morning. However there were still two cars parked, and they were both right in front of our table.

After a good while two tow trucks turned up, this was no easy thing, on the tiny cobbled thin road.

Everyone from the bars were watching as they loaded the cars onto each truck, and towed them away. 

Just moments later all eyes turned toward the large gold doors of the church, as a huge statue, of Mary, which was on a solid wooden base, the size of a super king bed, came out. 

This was being carried on the shoulders of about a dozen men. They were all dressed in robes, some with strange pointy hoods.

 If the cars had still been parked there, no way would the procession have been able to get past.

Dozens more people came out of the church all dressed in robes and hoods, and several smaller wooden plinths, covered with beautiful fresh flowers and religious figures. They were all skilfully lifted up and carried on shoulders.

It was wonderful to witness, local people from the community of all generations took part.

 After the processions had finally passed, I noticed an elderly man, in the distance, he was walking with a crutch. He was staring over right at the spot where both the cars had been parked.

 I thought to myself, I bet one was his, Sure enough it was and it was quite a comedy moment, seeing the police explain it all to him. Fortunately they felt sorry for him, and one offered him a lift.. 

Every supermarket had always been closed on Sundays. Even the towns Spar 7/11 shops, which in England do most of their trading on Sundays. ( cafes bars and resturants open.) When walking into town, Easter Sunday,  the most sacred Sunday of the year, all the supermarkets were  open! 

It is so interesting to me, to observe and try to               understand a completely different culture.. 

 

It was now the last day of our Daughters visit.            We all went for a hike. We chose one of the mountains we could see from our balcony.

 It was a beautiful warm sunny day. We walked amongst wild cactus and fragrant mountain herbs, both Rosemary and Thyme were in  flower. 

Bees were buzzing all around the purple and deep blue tiny blooms, I couldnt resist picking some, and had several thoughts of how I would use them in the kitchen.

we sat and took in the glorious views. We could see miles of oranges groves, and the rice fields, with the sea in the distance. 

On the short drive home, we had the windows down to enjoy a breeze. When all of a sudden the whole car was filled with an intoxicating floral scent. We pulled over at the side of the country road, and all got out. 

The orange trees that had fruited early, were now in blossom. The flowers were beautiful, white and waxy like tiny orchids, and the scent was just exquisite.

This was especially special for me, as in the past I have used, bought wholesale, blended and sold,       essential oils. This was many years ago when the     children were young, and orange blossom oil has      always been my favourite scent.

 In Aromatherapy this oil is used to help treat symptoms of stress and emotional grief. 

The oil is also one of the most expensive, and is highly sought after by the best perfumeries in the world. 

Several years ago, while on holiday, we visited the perfume museum in Grasse, France. 

 It was fascinating to see all the vintage copper    equipment. Used to extract the fragrant oils, from tons of hand picked rose, Jasmine and orange blossoms.

Unfortunately now, most perfumes are made using cheaper synthetic fragrances and ingredients. 

The Orange blossom oil is called Neroli, after an Italian princess, named Neroli, insisted on the blossoms    being used in her wedding bouquet.

 This is still a tradition for Italian brides today..

 

That evening, we sat on the balcony enjoying a glass of wine, staring over to the mountains in the distance, we had earlier climbed.

 

I am really starting to feel blessed with my new life. Some days feel truly like a dream.

Blog 11

A new life in Valencia, Spain..."The Pees"!

Apartment living is going well, and its been wonderful to use the new kitchen. 

The Market on Friday was full of juicy Apricots, So obviously I bought a kilo. By the time I got them home, in the heat of the midday sun, they were very ripe and desperately needed something done with them.

I made Apricot conserve and chilli Apricot jam. We enjoyed it for breakfast over the next few weeks, and the chilli one, went brilliantly with Spanish goats cheese for suppers.

 

 The weather is sunny everyday and the temp is creeping up towards 25 degrees, Just perfect. We had heard from several people, that last summer, it was over 30 degrees  for most of July and Aug!! 

 So we asked a local firm to come and install an aircon unit in the living room. If we closed the door off to the hallway, and left our bedroom door open it would easily keep both rooms cool, when the really hot temps arrive.

 

I Am now excited to get the balcony looking nice,  so we head to a garden centre, over in the next town. They had a resident parrot, who was flying around the place, called Charlie. 

I went for a look outside, And I was in heaven, all the Mediterranean palms, giant cactus and citrus trees. Maybe one day!

One of the plants I was looking at had a huge praying mantis resting on it, it was 4 inches long!

I tried not to go mad, on the first visit! I had to keep reminding myself that we only had a balcony.

 I  just bought a few bright red geraniums, two hibiscus plants (with flowers the size of saucers). Then as we were leaving a huge display of Bougainvillea caught my eye. So one of them also came home with us.

  I had tried them several times on my porch in England, but they never lasted beyond a couple of months. This beautiful purpley pink, flowering, climbing plant requires long hot sunny days...

 

The time had arrived to complete our registering process. We had previously got the padron part from the local town hall, a couple of months ago. 

Now we needed an appointment at the larger police station, in the neighbouring town, about 20 mins drive away. 

The same helpful multilingual assistant met us outside the building, and we went in and sat waiting to be called up. The room was large and open plan, with about 100 seats, all filled with people like us, from different countries.

When we were called, all three of us went and sat at a low counter, with an armed policeman behind.

He asked us both a few questions, such as how long had we been in Spain, how did we travel to Spain etc, thankfully our assistant translated everything smoothly between us. 

 We both had to have our fingerprints taken, hand over a passport photo each, plus some electronic signing . It didn't take more than 20 mins.

About a month later, in the post, two  EU ID cards arrived. We are told it is law to carry them with us at all times.

 Also we would need to show our card, when a parcel is delivered to our home (Amazon etc). 

Or if we were to purchase anything large, like a washing machine or new car.    The card is also directly linked to our visa and passport. 

Soon everyone entering Spain, from the UK, will be required to have their fingerprints taken, at the airport, before entering  Spain.

 They realise that this will cause utter chaos and long delays, so they have put the date back several times already, but it is coming soon... 

 

It was now time for our youngest Daughter to visit,  I was desperate to see her, as we hadnt seen each other since late September! It was now early May.

She arrived looking paler than I had ever seen her look. She had been surviving the long Uk winter and hideously wet spring, in her urban, Uni Dorms. I urged her to sit in the sun,  to top up her vitamin D levels and fussed over her, making her fresh juices and salads.

She was desp to get her hair done, as it had not been done since she left us in Devon last Sept. I had made an appointment for her a few weeks ago, in the little salon up in the old town.

The morning of her appointment was now upon us, I was slightly nervous, but I hid it as I hoped the experience would be perfect. They had done a good job with my hair over the past few months, so off we went. 

My Daughter is quite shy, plus she didn't speak any Spanish, so I promised to stay with her throughout the experience. 

As usual, all eyes were on us as we walked into the salon, But they were getting used to seeing me there most months, so it wasn't too bad.  I had spent ages translating via google app, the night before, exactly what she wanted done, and handed my phone over to the young woman. 

She took my phone over to all the others and it went very quiet, as they all read our requests. Then all of a sudden, they all roared about with laughter!

It was lost in translation, the first half was fine, half a head of highlights, through her dark roots, a trim, with a  conditioning treatment, to make her ass nice and glossy and shiny!!

When they showed us how it translated for them, we all had a good laugh together. 

 After about 3 hrs, several of the ladies had now gone for lunch. The hair looked only about half way through, and the salon had emptied, only the boss lady, and one other customer were in there.

 I popped to the little bar in the square, which was less than 2 mins away. I had a quick small beer in the sunshine and picked up some water and nuts for my Daughter.

 As I walked back into the salon, Both the boss lady and the other older women,  were standing right over my daughter, sat in her chair. As I got closer I could see the owner was pinching the skin, of my daughter's arm, fascinated at how white she was. The other lady said to me, She is the most Blanco (white) person we see in our lives! 

My poor daughter looked mortified. 

Thankfully her hair, turned out very nice!

 

The next morning we all went out for breakfast, both her and our Daughter in NZ, are vegans So we knew eating out in Spain could be challenging. But the local traditional breakfast was ideal, as it was naturally vegan.

It consists of a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice, a strong black coffee, a tostada de tomate, which is  baguette lightly toasted, drizzled with olive oil, with a little dish of fresh ripe mashed tomato, to spoon over it. 

 Wonderfully simple and a bargain for 3 euros pp. We sat outside, in the sunshine, with glimpses of shimmering blue sea.

After a few days, spent enjoying paddleboarding and picnics on the beach together, it  was time to say goodbye, fortunately only until August. 

 

 

Several days later, we had a terrific thunder storm. We sat watching a dazzling lightning show, from the balcony, ages before we heard any thunder, or saw any rain.  Watson got cross with me for staying outside, and started barking furiously.

 He wanted me safe inside. It was definitely the loudest thunder I had ever experienced.  When the rain came it was absolutely torrential, all very exciting. It was only the second time we had seen rain, since we had arrived 6 months ago!

 

The next day the skies were once again blue and clear. 

Early in the afternoon, our doorbell rang, which was very unusual. There was a man standing there waving his arms animatedly, and speaking words we couldn't understand. 

Then he was gone!  My husband followed after him, and he disappeared into the ground floor apartment below.

Moments later, my husband came up, saying grab your phone, you need to go and see the lady who lived in the apartment on the ground. He said he thinks it has something to do with my flowers. 

So reluctantly, down I went. When I popped my head round their little gate, a furious lady was waving her arms all about. Then she translated via her phone, that she was very annoyed, as several of my petals had landed on the pavement in her little garden.

I explained that It was obviously from the torrential downpour,last night. These things happen, I say, sorry. ( All via my phone app too!)

Now if Bougainvillea petals gently fell onto my garden, I would have thought I had died and gone to heaven. But she was furious, there were only about 4 of them! 

She was insisting we get a net all along the length of our balcony. 

A couple of days later, it  happened again, with them saying some of Watson's fur had landed in their garden, so to keep the peace, we got a darn net.

I must admit, this did take the shine off our apartment living.(temporarily) But thankfully all the other neighbours are nice. 

Next door to our apartment upstairs, is a young Spanish police man and his partner, who speaks some English.( Tick and Tick there!)

 We had spoken with our French neighbours below, and with another family, on the ground floor.  When they visited, and all were very friendly. 

 The  older Spanish lady, in the large house below us. With the large vegetable garden, we looked down to, is called Rosa.  She is very happy to smile and wave.

Also we have a lovely Valencian elderly couple and their two grown up grandsons, living in a house opposite our garage. They often waved and gave us different fruits and vegetables. Including some I had never even seen before!

We found out that the petal complaining neighbours are called Paula and Paco. So our nickname for them are the Pees!

 

 

 

Blog 11

A new life in Valencia, Spain...Mr Gay and the hookers!

The beach community was now starting to get a little busier. When we walked Watson we noticed lots of new faces, and the restaurants and bars which were closed out of season, were now starting to open.

I saw an advert on the local facebook group, for yoga classes at the beach. So I signed up for the following Monday evening at 7pm. I was missing the company of other women, and ready to meet some new friends.

Monday eve, with yoga mat under arm, I strolled to the beach. I could see a few other ladies also with their mats, so I walked over to them. When all of us were there, the teacher invited us to follow her onto the sand,and we all set up our mats near the shoreline.

The beach was peppered with people, some walking, a small group playing volleyball and others just sitting and chatting. The sun was still quite high in the sky and kept us all warm, as we relaxed chatting, on our mats after.

I enjoyed it and arranged to meet the group on Wednesday morning for another session.

This time afterwards, we all went for a coffee, in a cafe just off the beach. It was nice to chat and get to know the ladies, we were all from the UK, except one lady who was American. I went along both days for the next few weeks, and was starting to get to know the group better.

During one coffee, after a yoga session, A man walked towards our table, the other ladies were either at the bar or busy chatting. So he asked me if Julie was sitting here, I replied, no Judy is, I think?

As he stood there I started to recognise him as the man from A place in the sun, from the episode we had watched in the little old town bar. 

The couple who missed their flight and turned up at the end of the show, to loud cheers.

  All of a sudden, the penny dropped, that the lady I had been calling Judy, and sitting next to for the past few weeks, doing beach yoga, was in fact his wife who was called Julie!

He sat and joined us and while chatting, mentioned he was in a hiking group. I said my husband would love to do this, So he said he would send him the details.

I was excited to get home and tell my husband all my news!

It was time to change our UK number plates on the car, To Spanish ones, and my husband had to exchange his UK driving licence for a Spanish one. 

Although I had driven in the Uk for 35 years, I hadn't driven at all in Spain. I was used to my small manual Mini, and didn't fancy driving my husband's large automatic, plus I have a thing where I get my left and right mixed up! 

So I was very happy cycling into town for now.  But if we ever moved somewhere more remote, I would have to seriously rethink.

 

We went to visit beautiful Denia again, this time we headed for a wooded  beach, far beyond the port and marina we had visited last time. We parked up for free, along the long coastal road, and joined a coastal path. 

We walked along for about 2km, with the shimmering blue Mediterranean Sea, right beside us. We passed a seafood restaurant that was sitting on the rocks, with its dining area facing straight out to sea.

 It wasn't open yet, as it was still late morning, but as we walked past we could see rows of octopus drying on a rope line, On its tiny private beach.

 The craggy rocky coastline reminded me of a Greek island, rather than Spain. We kept walking further until the path eventually ran out.

 There were huge high cliffs at the end, but just before they started, was another beautiful looking               restaurant, it had a large terrace overhanging the sea. 

We both enjoyed bottled coca colas on ice, the views were like paradise..

 

 

On the 30 min drive back, we decided to take the smaller road, rather than the motorway we had used previously. We were about half way along the road, which was a basic dual carriageway, lined either side with orange groves. 

As we noticed several ladies, each sitting on white plastic garden chairs, By the side of the road, and on both sides. There must have been at least 7, spaced out with ½ mile gaps from one another.

They were dressed in bikinis, and high heels, some had a parasol to sit under, some were reading books, others were looking at their phones. But they all glanced up, as we passed. 

When we got towards the end of the road, just moments from our  turn off, we saw one lady, parading in a thong, and boob tube, along the busy road.              My husband almost strained his neck getting a good eyeful, we both did, to be honest. 

Yes I later read, they were prostitutes, they take their clients into the orange groves for business.

Prostitution is legal in Spain, but being a pimp is not legal.  After the initial surprise of seeing them there, it did quite shock us both.

 I am  hoping these sisters are getting to keep their earnings, and there is no pimp, behind the scene!

 

Later in the week, we were in town collecting a parcel from the correo (postoffice)

When we noticed several of the now infamous,          triangular little road signs. I couldn't quite make out what was written on them, so I went up close to get a better look. I am sure it said Mr Gay, my husband thought I must have read it wrong. So when we passed another a few minutes later, he took a closer look for himself.

Sure enough, it said Mr Gay, no parking, from 5pm, hand written in black marker pen.

We sat outside one of the patisseries, and enjoyed lovely little pastries and coffee. We had a great view of a team of men, who were busy setting up a huge stage. 

It had a long thin runway coming from the middle of the stage, and they were erecting tall metal fencing to enclose the area behind the stage. 

Later that evening, curiosity had gotten the better of us, so we cycled back into town for a few drinks, and to see what it was all about.

We got there around 8pm, and the whole paseo was packed. They were doing loud sound checks from the stage, and there were lots of neon coloured pink weighted signs saying Mr Gay Spain!

After a couple of drinks sat outside a busy nearby bar, we saw huge plasma TVs come to life on the stage. House music started blaring out from the walls of huge speakers. There was now great excitement in the air, and everyone walked towards the stage,     leaving the cafes and bars.

There were several Spanish TV celebrities now on the stage, and the host got a huge cheer from the crowds. All of a sudden, fireworks and glitter and a puff of smoke later, the show began.

One at a time an oiled up fit, scantily clad young  gay man, would introduce himself, then strut his stuff down the catwalk. Some were dressed only in a thong, and feather bower.                             

  People were cheering and whistling loudly, the atmosphere was brilliant fun..

 How local they were, I had no idea, but I couldn't help thinking they were all pretty brave, considering this was a very traditional town, in a very Catholic country.

It went on for ages, but it was brilliant fun and great entertainment. I noticed quite a high number of really elderly people, some with walking frames, were still out past midnight. Mind you, if they lived in any of the apartments on the paseo, they had no chance of sleeping through this.

In the end Mr Gay Valencia was crowned, and went through to the finals of Mr Gay Spain.

 

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