Blog 22

A new life in Valencia
Our second year...

The Winter that never came!
 

It is Artichoke season! The Spanish call them Alcachofas.

At the market I bought two kilos, plus several bunches of spinach, oranges, grapefruits, and 3 kilos of small ripe avocados. 

Shopping at the market is not for the faint hearted, dozens of local ladies all of a certain age, surround each stall. The popular ones have crowds three rows deep, with everyone desperately trying to get served next. 

Heated words are often exchanged, several times I have  seen the whole crowd up in arms when someone gets served before their turn. 

My favorite stall is the only one that has a ticket machine! 

Many times ladies queuing either side of me, have demanded to see my ticket. I often receive an elbow in the ribs, letting me know the stall holder has shouted my number! 

I am out of my depth when the numbers go above 20, and they often go into the high hundreds!

I stopped for breakfast at one of the busy street cafes, managing to squeeze myself and all my shopping, on the end of an already packed table. 

I ordered the simple traditional breakfast of Tostada y Tomate (toasted baguette with olive oil and a little dish of fresh mashed tomato), with a small glass of beer. 

As I look around the crowded tables almost everyone has ordered the exact same thing, with the exception of one man eating a slice of tortilla and some with Jamon (ham) on top of their tomato.

The locals do love their Jamon!

It's turned up in almost every dish we've eaten out! Salads promised to be vegetarian, cheese croquettes, vegetable rice dishes, and olives, to name a few.

When we visit a local bar we are presented with slices of Jamon in a small terracotta dish, complimentary to accompany our drinks.

One time as not to offend I popped the slices in my shirt pocket for Watson, only forgetting and discovering an oily mess several days later! 

There is a mad rush to buy a whole leg of Jamon in the run up to the festive season. Several times in supermarkets we queued behind someone with one on the conveyor belt, at the checkout. 

It's the size of an adult's thigh and isn't wrapped, leaving a juicy oily damp mess, not great for us vegetarians!!

Enjoying my Tostada and small beer, I chat with two friendly ladies at the table, visiting from a neighbouring village. They show me photos of their family via their phones, and I share photos of my daughters.

I leave feeling grateful that I could say I was English, and have three daughters.

I have signed up for weekly Spanish classes, they start next week!.

 

I cycled home along the riverbank, passing orange groves on either side. I normally go along the main road, but I had recently discovered this route and much preferred it. 

I see rabbits running around the fields, ducks on the water and a handsome healthy looking fox. 

Its no wonder he looked so well, with a diet of duck a l'orange and rabbit!

As I slowed down, spotting a  heron, sitting on a rock surrounded by tall bull rushes, a little pig came running towards me! 

Not quite sure what to do, I parked my bike against a tree. Keeping my distance, I watched as it happily played, before disappearing back into the orange groves. 

I took some avocados from my shopping bag and gently rolled a few towards where he had headed, hoping he may enjoy them later..

 

I spent several hours Sunday afternoon, peeling all those Artichokes, each with layers of thick gnarly tuff leaves, so much work for the tiny heart in the centre!  

Next year I will wear plastic gloves, as my fingers were stained dark brown for almost a week! 

Thankfully they were worth the effort, the hearts were magnificent. I made antipasti, filling two large glass jars, which I topped up with garlic, herbs and olive oil. Livening up our pastas, pizzas and salads for several months.. 

 

After the Autumn wind storms the weather has been just heavenly, blue skies and sunshine every day. Winter just hasn't arrived this year!

The news is filled with stories about drought, farmers are being told not to irrigate crops and to half all water for livestock. Spain is absolutely desperate for rain!.

Ive been enjoying my twice weekly yoga classes, high up on the roof terrace, very close to the castle in the old town. The views from up there are wonderful. We enjoy drinks and a catch up after, outside a nearby cafe. 

One of the ladies bought me a bag of limes from her garden!

We celebrated our 28th wedding anniversary last weekend. We had lunch at a Nepalese restaurant in Denia, we ate outside, not bad for late January!.

 

This region is very popular with cyclists during the Winter months, the roads are currently filled with them. Olympians and professional cyclists from around the world, take advantage of the winter sunshine, winding mountain roads and flat valley floors.

We recently visited the Jalon Valley, known for its vineyards, wineries and spectacular walking. 

Around every corner in both directions were cycle teams with their support vehicles. It is great for local business, hotels and accommodations are full of them during the quieter winter months.

We stumbled across a lovely cycle cafe, in an old building with a huge open courtyard, crammed full of parked bikes. 

We saw Dutch, French, Belgian, German and English teams, it felt very continental. The place was decorated with oversized photos of famous cyclists and races, with vintage bikes hanging from the ceiling.

It was all very distracting as we had really come to explore the vineyards and wineries!

We followed directions to a 7k walking trail, looping the valley floor. Watson was very happy to get amongst the open quiet countryside. 

 We passed a large old house with huge Turkeys roaming about with a gaggle of hissing geese on guard. 

Watson wasn't very keen.

In no time we were walking amongst large wild cactus, some were in full bloom, with bright red flowers. We passed exotic giant aloes, and fields full of neat rows of vineyards, as far as we could see in each direction.

 

 The vines looked black and were cut back hard, all gnarly and void of any green.

We must go back later in the year, when the vines are full of juicy plump grapes!

About half way into our walk we heard the clanging of bells in the distance, as an elderly herder and his dog approached driving a large herd of mountain goats.

 

 We picked Watson up with us and sat on a wall as they all passed by. The noise was beautiful but really loud as all the cow bells clanged around dozens of little necks!

Corgis are natural cattle herders. I wondered if Watson instinctively wanted to join in. 

He came from a working farm in North Wales. We did a 400 mile round trip twice in four weeks. Once to meet him at six weeks old then two weeks later to bring him home to Devon with us. 

When he was a puppy he used to nip everyone's ankles which we later found out was how they round up sheep!

 

He was fascinated by it all but seemed happy just to watch from the wall, as they passed.

The views changed as our walk took us through Citrus groves. I picked a leaf and bit into it, and could taste all the essential oils. 

The oil from the orange leaf is called Petitgrain, in aromatherapy it is used to help with relaxation, anxiety and loneliness! 

 

We both picked a small ripe orange, I think they were Mandarinas. A glorious sweet aroma was released as soon as I pierced its skin, it tasted so sweet, we both agreed it was the most delicious orange of our lives! 

 

I am so grateful to be able to enjoy all these wonderful natural aromas, I completely lost my sense of taste and smell for two years after a dire case of Covid!.

 

 

 

Over the winter the beach has become full of little fuzzy brown balls, thousands of them have washed up along the shoreline.

I read they are commonly known as Neptunes balls! 

Apparently sea grass becomes matted into balls, which act as a natural filter system, bringing tiny plastics and other waste materials from the sea onto the shore. They are native to Australia as well as eastern Spain..

Our kind elderly neighbour Ona handed me some tall thistles, like giant spiky celery, wrapped in newspaper.

She mimed with her hands,peeling and chopping them into small pieces then cooking them in a pan of boiling water!

I google them, they are called Cardoon thistles and known to have a very bitter taste! Later I read, these thistles along with many wild plants like chick weed, were foraged and eaten to keep starvation at bay, during the Spanish civil war. 

The war (1936-1939) was between republicans (liberal minded) and nationalists (right wing fascists). Both Nazi Germany and fascist run Italy, supplied the nationalists with munitions, soldiers and air support!

The nationalists won, resulting in Franco the fascist dictator, ruling Spain for 36 long years.

Once in power, witch hunts took place, resulting in mass killings. Around 500,000 Spanish republicans fearing for their lives fled to refugee camps in Southern France. The people of Spain faced years of repression and starvation under his reign. He ruled Spain until his death in 1975!

Understandably it is still extremely painful for the people who lived through it. I am told not to bring it up in conversation as they do not like to talk about it. 

We have recently made the effort to watch several documentaries about it, to help us better understand this country and its people. Like our kind neighbours, Ona and Pedro.

A few weeks later she offered me another bundle of the giant long thistles, I mimed back to her, peeling them, cutting them, boiling them, eating them, and then stuck my tongue out animatedly saying Nooo! 

Thankfully she fell about laughing, I am sure she thinks I am mad, but they honestly tasted so bitter. She has forgiven me as a couple of weeks later she gave us a box of avocados, so all is well..

It's almost St Valentine's day and tickets are selling like hot cakes for the big national Valentines lottery. 

At Christmas Spain has the largest lottery in the world, called El Gordo, meaning the fat one. The tickets cost 200 euros each! Friends, family, colleagues, bars and locals all go in on a ticket. 

The locals are obsessed with the lotto, year round the Tabacs and lottery shops dotted around the town have queues coming out the doors.  

Mobile vendors walk about selling tickets outside the busy bars and cafes, even sitting on chairs in the middle of the busy market!.

On Saturday morning fireworks were set off at 8 am for a whole hour! They could be heard all over the town. 

The Valencians do love their fireworks in the daytime! Preferring the loud bangs to the dazzling colourful displays seen in a dark night sky.

This weekend is the fiesta of Puxtero. The town's eight brotherhoods, each representing a local parish or district, have their processions, marching through the streets of the old town and paseo.

Each one is led by a large band playing samba music! Huge drums are towed on wheels and pulled along with ropes by young teens, walking in front of the person fiercely banging them! 

Saxophones, clarinets, bugles and flutes are all being played. 

There is a young lad in the house opposite our apartment, who obviously received a bugle for Christmas. Probably longing to join one of the many bands that play at the dozens of fiestas throughout the year. 

He practices most days and his playing is absolutely torturous, but it regularly makes us both laugh, I am sure he will improve. We call him bugle boy!

The costumes are amazingly opulent and colourful, and the loud exotic carnival rhythms make it impossible to stay still as the processions pass.

Later in the afternoon they have a paella cook off, huge pans are placed on piles of hot coals, out on the streets, then parties spill out onto the streets late into the night. 

I learned the whole celebration is to mark the fact that the moors and christian festival is 6 months away! In July!.

Shopping in Denia recently I fell in love with a child's sized flamenco dress, so I bought one with matching red and black polka dot shoes! For my granddaughter's fifth birthday.

I wrapped them in a pretty box and sent it from the local correo (post office). I wasn't sure if they would arrive in time, but thankfully they did. 

My daughter sent a wonderful photo of her wearing the outfit on her birthday. 

Apparently she loves the noise the little heels make and is driving everyone crazy, clip clopping on a wooden chopping board in the middle of the living room floor!

I was shoe obsessed as a child and a memory came flooding back. I used to take my grandads blakeys from his shoe shine box and stamp them into the heels of my shoes, tap dancing on the patio for hours on end!.

I had planned to visit all the family during February half term, but unfortunately our visas are still in the renewal process! 

Thankfully we had recently heard they have been approved, but our lawyer says it could be risky re entering Spain until we have the physical copy.

Hopefully we will receive them very soon!.

With still no rain, Catalonia has declared its 1st ever drought emergency! Spain has asked the EU commission for emergency funds!

Fountains have been turned off, swimming pools cant be filled and heated discussions between agriculture and tourism (farmers vs hotels!) are taking place.

To add to the problems several big wild fires are raging throughout the province. We have watched seaplanes flyover and fill up at the beach. 

On the regional news it shows helicopters filling up from swimming pools, up in the hills. Hundreds of people have been displaced!

When walking we have seen huge wide river beds so dry they have forests of 6ft tall bamboo and pampas grass growing in them.

On a recent hike my husband passed a deserted camping village, up in the higher hills. Its huge empty swimming pool, little cabins and reception, left to be reclaimed by nature.

Apparently due to the high risk of wild fires many woodland camping parks across Spain have been abandoned over the past decade..

It was time for my first Spanish class!

 The classes are held in a huge old building, known locally as the pensionista. It is located on the edge of the old town, facing out to the busy main road.

I walked into a big open plan room, which was filled with elderly locals, sat at tables chatting loudly, some playing cards. 

I recognised one lady but couldn't place her, she was fixing a rather stern stare at me, from across the room.

A short while later I realised it was one of the ladies who came to the beach for the Summer, playing cards outside every evening!

There was a large bar offering food and drinks, my class starts at 4pm but I am not quite sure where yet. 

I notice some people arriving are walking through the large doors at the end of the bar. 

So I head in that direction, climbing up several flights of beautifully ornate vintage stairs, leading to another huge room.

Obviously a ballroom, the main wall was mirrored from floor to ceiling, I could imagine it filled with locals doing their latin dance classes. The room had several large windows with Juliet style balconies.  

It started to fill up quickly and the teacher came in and introduced himself. We sat in groups of four around small tables, spaced out in a long line with the teacher and his board in front. 

We took turns introducing ourselves then each made a name badge. 

One lady was from Sweden, there was a couple from Tasmania, a Canadian, an American and everyone else were from the UK.

The class was light and fun. We learnt about descriptions and how to describe ourselves. 

I came away knowing my backpack is called a mochilla, and my hair is morena (dark!) Sonrisa is a smile and grande dientes means big teeth!

I am quite excited at the thought of doing my homework and returning next week to start learning our numbers, apparently playing lotto!.

My husband had recently finished a six hour hike and was on the paseo, enjoying drinks with the group. So I joined them after my class. 

I had met them all at the boozy Christmas lunch, they were an interesting bunch. Sitting outside for over an hour, I was freezing, still dressed for the 22 degrees winter sunshine before sunset! 

As we walked home my husband said he had mentioned my encounter with the little pig to the group. He was told that someone had released three pot bellied Vietnamese pigs! 

They had been living wild in the orange groves, sadly there was only one left now, it is very friendly and is often spotted along the riverbank path!.

 

 Paella cook off!

Giant Cactus.. Jalon valley 

Flamenco dress & shoes for my grand daughters birthday!

blog 23

A new life in Valencia
Our second year..

A Spanish tortilla!
 

I have been told that we must visit the Alcalai valley, known as the valley of the pop, when its almond trees are in blossom. 

So on an early Spring morning, we drove the short picturesque journey to the Alcalali Valley.                     

As we parked the car I could already see soft clouds of pink blooms in the distance.

Joining the path we were soon walking amongst the almond groves. Only a couple of weeks ago the trees resembled stark twigs, now they are adorned with tiny pretty pink flowers!

I read, when the almonds are ripe their hulls will split open, they are harvested in late August, when festivals celebrating the almonds take place.

We pass citrus groves, bursting with several varieties of oranges and newly ripened lemons. 

The floors beneath them are carpeted with vibrant greens and bright yellow flowers of the sprawling rape. Under a cloudless blue sky, it really looked beautiful.

Around midday the paths were starting to get quite busy. I could see a large group starting a guided tour, so we decided it was time to head to the nearby village of Lliber, for refreshments.

The village was lovely, its old quaint buildings painted in tasteful different colours. Bougainvilleas still in bloom were sprawling wildly from their outgrown pots, around doorways. 

It was completely charming and so warm, I am walking about in my t-shirt and Birkenstock sandals in February! 

We found a lovely square with a bar that had tables under a couple of trees.

I went inside to use the bathroom, noticing on the bar two very impressive looking tortillas, turned out of their pans displayed on large glass platters. 

The lady behind the counter assures me they are vegetarian, so I order a slice each with glasses of red wine, grown and produced in the valley.

Over the years I had made what I'd called Spanish tortillas, chucking in hunks of potato, peppers, French beans, basically whatever veges needed using up from my fridge, mixing in six eggs. 

The tortilla we are served today is a million miles away from mine.

 

We sat outside with the village church behind, looking over to the vineyards. I could hear people around us speaking in French, American and German. 

The tortilla was muy delicioso! Our slices were about four inches deep, with layers of deeply caramelised onions and thinly sliced potatoes, maybe cut with a mandolin.

 It was more like a dense savoury cake, and the generous use of olive oil, made it a magnificent golden colour. I am super impressed how something so simple is the best thing I have eaten out, since being here. I am excited to make one at home..

 

The Neptune balls have mostly gone from our local beach, but the shoreline is now knee deep in strange brown seaweed! Each week more of it seems to be piling up, making it tricky to access the sea.

I read it is an aggressive growing, invasive seaweed. This Spring It has suddenly appeared all along the coastline of eastern Spain.

It is native to the Pacific including Japan and China, it was first identified in Spanish waters in 2015. 

It's believed to have arrived in the Mediterranean through the ballast waters of ships, passing through the Suez Canal.

(Probably from all the new Chinese cars being shipped here!)

It is extremely difficult to eradicate as it has no predators in these waters.

Further down the coast the seaweed has piled up so much the local council removed 1,200 tonnes, including 78 tonnes in a single day! 

Worried it will have a negative impact on this Summers tourism. 

The weed is known as Rulopteryx Okamurae and keeps growing back faster than they can clear it!.

 

Something has puzzled us for several months now. We have noticed a strange phenomenon around our neighbourhood, lots of houses leave large bottles filled with water outside. 

Most of them have one at each corner, but Mrs Poodle has six 5L bottles lined up, all along the very narrow public pavement, alongside her property!

Dressed in her pale blue nylon cleaning overall, from dawn till dusk. She is out cleaning and sweeping her porch early every morning, often chucking a bucket of bleachy water into the street without warning! 

Several mornings my husband has returned from walking Watson, cursing her, only narrowly avoiding getting soaked! 

I've walked past, with Watson, no doubt in a little world of my own, as she appears from nowhere, shouting, AAAY!!

Leaning over her wall, pointing and wagging her finger at Watson, making me jump out of my skin! He was only having a little sniff. (I always pick up after him)

We have managed to remain polite, mostly as she has the advantage of being in her own country! She has an ancient little black poodle, We have yet to learn its name!

I have recently learned, they leave these plastic bottles outside, filled with water, hoping dog owners will swill away, after their dog has peed.

Considering most dogs and cats (Watson included!) Pee against these bottles, it's not really something I have wanted to pick up!

To keep the neighbours happy, I now carry a small bottle of water and make the effort to wash away after Watson pees. It's quite surprising how many locals get very upset if you don't do this.

 Another new cultural etiquette to adhere to!.

 

Cycling back from the market, this time laden with kilos of onions and potatoes, hoping to replicate the tortilla. On the riverbank path, almost in the exact same spot, I met the little pig again!

Like before, I parked my bike against a tree and watched it play happily for a while. This time I took several apples from my bag, carefully rolling each one towards the pig, now just inside the orange groves. 

I poked my head in, and saw her sniffing at the apples, and just behind her was a partially hidden cosy nest, filled with four baby piglets!

In fact they resembled tiny wild boar, each one had dark wiry hairs on their little heads.

I had heard there were wild boars around, one afternoon we were driving along a busy dual carriageway in the neighbouring town, when a huge boar ran across several lanes, right in front of us. 

We watched as it frantically butted at a tall wire fence, desperately trying to return into the orange groves. Thankfully it made a hole and squeezed through, I was worried it would run back across the busy road! 

The locals hunt them, (probably where all the Jamon comes from!) 

We have seen shops in neighbouring towns selling guns and rifles. I can remember being quite alarmed when we were renting in the old town, watching a very elderly neighbour load several large rifles into his car. 

Some mornings from our balcony, this winter, we have heard gunshots echoing in the distance, towards the nature reserves and rice fields.

Thankfully the orange groves are privately owned and hunters aren't allowed to trespass through them. So hopefully the little pig and her piglets will survive!.

 

On the local face book group, I saw an advert for an antique market, for the first Sunday of the month, in the village of Jesus pobre.  

So on the first Sunday in March, we drove south for around forty minutes, seeing a sign for Jesus probre, pronounced hey- zeus  pob-ray! 

We have a neighbour in the apartment below us called Jesus, his son is also named Jesus!

As we turned off the main road, the huge mountain, named Montgo, stood imposingly in front of us. We can see Montgo from our local beach, it frames the southern end. 

The village of Jesus pobre is on the valley floor, at the foot of the large mountain.

We parked for free on the outskirts, and walked through pretty country lanes, into the tiny village. 

We passed some wonderful properties, some had huge wooden gates with ornate ironwork, alongside the tallest cypress trees we had ever seen. 

I caught glimpses through fences, of swimming pools and beautiful rambling gardens, looking over to more mountains and terraces of olives, pomegranates and citrus.

My mind drifted off for a moment, daydreaming of sharing meals outside to those views, then star gazing beside a fire pit, under dark night skies!

We came to an opening at the edge of a small woodland. A myriad of stalls were dotted about, some under the canopy of tall pines.

There was a rustic open-sided building, in the middle, serving food and drinks! 

It looked stunning as we approached, with the huge rock face of the mountain behind, and clear blue skies.

We walked about visiting every stall, enjoying rummaging through boxes of old treasures, and admiring the quirky offerings. I bought a large vintage painting of exotic foliage and an Andalusian cookery book! 

Keen to see what refreshments were on offer, I headed to the open sided building. 

One lady had several delicious looking cakes. I spotted an orange & almond cake, which is known locally as pastel de naranja y almendras. 

A known Valencian delicacy, I had yet to try!

It was really good, the best bit for me was its sticky orange glaze. We washed our slices down with sweet local desert wine, from small plastic cups. As we sat being entertained by two men, playing their fiddles! 

I picked up a flyer, this time advertising its produce market! So we will be coming back soon..

 

Unbeknown to us last year, the four days leading up to the crema, the burning of the huge colourful figures, at the festival of the fallas. At 2pm on the paseo, the ceremony of the Masclatas takes place.

I had been told it is not to be missed, huge crowds gather as a display of thousands of firecrackers are set alight. The noise is apparently immense.

We had heard loud bangs for the past few days at 2pm, from our balcony, 2km away! So on the final day of the mascletas, we cycled into town. 

There was a large area, fenced off with tall metal caging. Inside it was filled with rows of strings of firecrackers, looking like dozens of colourful pegs on washing lines.

Groups of young boys were busy chucking their loud bangers on the ground, while parents sat outside bars and cafes enjoying drinks together.

We joined a long queue at one of the roadside bars, then walked with our drinks towards the fenced off area. 

I could see several men inside, walking around checking all the pyrotechnics. The crowds were starting to get thicker, balconies of apartments on both sides of the paseo were filled with people young and old.

 I noticed lots of children were wearing very substantial looking ear defenders.

 A parade started around the outside of the paseo, with several marching bands, with dozens of young girls walking together, in their beautiful traditional dresses. (Also wearing ear defenders!)

The mayor said a few words over a loud speaker, then a countdown began, the crowds now excitedly shouting out numbers from 10 to 0 in Spanish.

Then a continual barrage of firecrackers started to explode, really loudly. Increasing their intensity throughout a ten minute assault to the ears! 

Clouds of thick smoke appeared, and we could no longer see any of the buildings, the people up on the balconies must be all choking! 

Nervously laughing from excitement and fear, as the crescendo gets louder, making the concrete shake beneath our feet. Feeling like our hearts were going to explode from our chests, we stared wide-eyed into each other's eyes, with a look that said, it's been good knowing you!

We were honestly left in a state of shock, and with watery eyes from all the smoke, both agreeing we needed a stiff drink!

 I read that this extremely noisy ritual is for purification, leaving the old behind, as rebirth comes from the ashes.

It's definitely not for the faint hearted!

A few days later we watched the Mascletas in Valencia city, on you tube..I highly recommend you watch it, to give you some idea of what we experienced..

 

It feels strange buying lemons from our local shop. I walk past trees in gardens, on my way there and back, filled with them, and sadly some rotting on the floor.

Unfortunately they have tall fences around them, these houses also have their metal shutters down over the windows. 

I've not seen anyone there for several months, It's probably a family from Madrid's holiday home. 

It saddens me to see them fall to the floor and go to waste. Hopefully they will come soon for Easter..

 

The other morning as I was getting my bike out of the garage, Pedro, our elderly neighbour, was fixing something with his car.

He is such a tiny man, his frame looks like a small child. Dressed in his bright blue boiler suit and sitting in his tiny chair, he reminds me of the small bear from Goldilocks!

As I was locking the garage door, a noisy old motorbike drove into our driveway, and almost up to my feet!

A similar, very short elderly man climbed off the bike, as Pedro got up to greet him.

On the back of the old motorcycle was a plastic crate, and in the crate, sat an ageing chihuahua!

As I went towards it to say hello, it started snarling and showing me his small sharp teeth!. His name I am told is Caesar!.

 

My Spanish classes are going well, this week I learnt the days of the week,

Lunes, Martes, Miércoles, Jueves, Viernes, Sábado, Domingo!

The only one I had heard of was Domingo (Sunday), from the famous Spanish opera singer Placido Domingo!

I now know my numbers to one hundred, which is slightly more helpful when shopping at the market..

When I have been in a patisserie, I have often noticed the assistant has a little laugh to herself, as I have asked her for, “una pan por favor”. 

It recently occurred to me, it would be like walking into a bakery in England, standing in front of dozens of different styles, shapes and types of wonderful breads, and asking the assistant for one bread please! 

 I now ask for, una barra de pan, por favor, which translates to one baguette please, so there is some small progress!.

 

We had a nice morning visiting Xativa castle recently. I am not usually into traipsing around stately homes or castles, but my husband had heard the views from this one were absolutely stunning, so that's what got me there to be honest.

We drove north towards Valencia for about half an hour, then cut in land arriving at the town of Xativa. 

Deciding to visit the Castell de X’ativa first, then explore the town and grab some lunch after.

Parking somewhere between the two, we climbed up the very steep hill to the castle.

It was once again a perfect sunny day, as we strolled around its grounds. I must admit it was much more impressive than I had expected, with Celti- Iberian and Roman roots, dating back to the third century BC!

I read that most of its walls preserved today are of Islamic or Gothic origin, with several medieval structures still in place.

As we walked about it reminded me of some of the locations used in a game of thrones, ancient and very Mediterranean. 

We admire stunning Moorish fountains, ancient olive trees and spellbinding panoramic views, with lots of tall date palms adding to its exotic charm. 

We spent a couple of very happy hours walking around, and I honestly felt mesmerised by its beauty, history and views.

Both ready for a cold beer and a bite to eat, we headed down into the town. The roads were lined with beautiful trees, and with its patisseries and Tabacs, I felt like I was in France!

With dozens of cafes and bars to choose from, we sat outside a large impressive patisserie, on a corner.

I went inside, admiring its long glass covered counters, filled with empanadas, savoury quiches and tarts, filled rolls and mini pizzas. I joined the long queue. 

When it got to my turn I excitedly dashed along pointing at several cheesy, tomatoey, spinachy delights behind the glass.

Unfortunately after three kind members of staff confirmed, while holding up a queue of bemused people. There was absolutely nothing they could offer as meat free! 

After several more failed attempts, starting to lose the will to live, we reluctantly settled outside a rather jaded looking kebab shop! 

It had a large faded photo menu on the wall offering falafels, (fried chick pea balls).

I went inside, relieved there was no queue, asking for two (now much needed) small beers and two falafel pitas. Only to be told they didn't serve alcohol. (Muslim!)

To avoid being the bearer of more bad news, I suggested to my husband, in my best jolly voice, let's go next door and enjoy a small beer, then come back to enjoy our pittas after!. Thankfully the falafels were really good.

Eating out for vegetarians in traditional Spain is very challenging. But when you understand until 1975 they were seriously deprived of most foods, with some having endured starvation. To ask for food without meat, understandably comes across as crazy or perhaps even self indulgent to them. Which I completely respect..

 

The following day I decided to attempt my first ever true Spanish tortilla. Searching the back of my kitchen cupboard, for my old heavy frying pan, and its lid.       

I sliced two huge Spanish onions into very thin slices, then let them gently caramelise in the pan. 

Peeling then thinly slicing, five good sized potatoes,boiling, draining and drying them, arranging them on top of the onions.

I beat together six large fresh eggs, adding generous amounts of nutmeg, sea salt, black and white pepper. Carefully pouring into the pan, over the onions and potatoes.

I covered the pan with its lid then left it to gently cook, for around thirty minutes. 

Leaving it to rest after cooking, for a further twenty minutes, then removing the lid, placing a large plate on top of the pan. 

Carefully turning it out upside down! (It was quite weighty.) 

It sliced easily into good deep robust slices. I served it warm with a simple rocket, lemon and Parmesan salad, and of course a glass of wine.

It was really delicious!

My husband rather annoyingly commented on its large size. I still find it hard cooking for two, after so many years of feeding a family of five!

He did, very annoyingly, have a point, as we were eating only tortilla, for the next few days. Maybe it's time to buy a smaller pan!.

 

On Sunday, as we drove back into town, after walking in a nearby mountain, known as the sleeping giant.

I noticed several men who were dressed from head to toe with bushy leaves! 

A little further along the road we saw several more men, standing outside bars with bare legs and toga type costumes, with huge palm leaves attached to them.

It became quite comical spotting more and more of them as we drove along. The bars around the paseo were packed with men dressed the same.

We were completely baffled, until later we learnt it was palm Sunday, and a parade had just finished, minutes before we drove through!

Palm Sunday marks the start of la Semana Santa, Holy week. A kind of countdown to Easter Sunday, which is next week.

The following morning was the ascent to calvary, once again, the brotherhoods from all the town's parishes dressed up.

This time in long robes, some with very strange pointy hoods, with slits for them to see out of. Rather unfortunately resembling the Ku Klux Klan! 

They parade at dawn, with lanterns up to the castle, and watch the sunrise.

My friend, whose roof terrace we do our yoga on, has a back door that opens out to the path, leading up to the castle. 

She tells me it was quite something to see.

It never fails to surprise me just how culturally different it is here, compared with England. At times it seems as though I have been transported back many decades in time!.

 

Our youngest daughter came to stay for Easter, enjoying a short break from her demanding final year of university. 

The weather was just beautiful. We enjoyed sitting in the sunshine together on the balcony most mornings, in the hope of her getting a healthy glow and topping up her vitamin D!.

I had been keen for a while to make a short video. I had noticed that some of the orange trees were just starting to blossom, and I thought it would be an ideal setting. I wanted to put a short video on you tube, sharing what I enjoyed most about living here.

So we set off together with a little fold up chair, walking the short walk to some nearby orange groves.

My daughter had talked me into going further into the trees than I had planned. Placing the chair so I would be surrounded by trees in full blossom. The smell was just gorgeous as I sat, trying to gather my rehearsed lines. 

It was going surprisingly well, and we were both starting to get into it. When I had run out of things to say, needing to look at my lines, comically I would lift up my foot so she knew to pause filming on her phone.

All of a sudden, we became aware of men shouting to one another, in the distance. It seemed to be getting louder, I could feel the ground vibrate beneath the soil, under my feet. 

Then in the distance we could see a group of Male North African fruit pickers, in the middle of the bushy forest of orange trees, and they were heading our way!

Quickly grabbing my chair, we both crouched down as low as we could, while still managing to move as fast as we could, until we were back out on the riverside path. 

We could see a large van parked up in the distance and huge piles of crates filled with oranges. 

Both laughing hysterically we decide to abandon the mission and go for a cold drink!.

 

On Saturday we decided to head into the Jallon valley, seriously underestimating how popular it would be, during the Easter holidays!

Still we had a wonderful day, there was a large rambling flea market, alongside the main road through the town. 

I bought a huge thick crusted sourdough loaf and some cheese and olive bread sticks, from a nice French lady.

We sat on a nearby wall enjoying them, listening to a young man play his flamenco guitar!

We all walked the length of the market. I bought a Japanese money plant and two beautiful hand painted small pebbles, from a kind English woman, who donates her sales to a local animal rescue charity.

I noticed it was by far the most expensive market we had come across, there were lots of eclectic antiques and quirky goods on offer, along with some very eccentric characters. 

One older dealer we chatted with was wearing a trilby type hat and smoking a cigar, reminding us of a Valencian Arthur Daley!

Rather amusingly when my husband asked him how much a small table was, I saw him glance down to his trainers. Trying to gauge my husband's wealth, before revealing his price. 

My husband offered him a great deal less, resulting in the tiny man pointing to his own fine leather shoes, saying very animatedly,  “look at these shoes, I am not gypsy, you insult me with your offer”!

Such a character, I will remember him forever..

 

 

The following morning, Easter Sunday, we all strolled into the paseo, to see if anything was going on.  

We sat outside a busy bar enjoying a drink in the sunshine. After a while I noticed children had started gathering all along the roads, leaving the busy play park in the centre, now completely empty.

A religious Easter parade came past with bands playing unusually solemn music. But at the end of the parade thousands of sweets were chucked in the air. 

Floats filled with people, all holding huge sacks upside down, spilling sweets onto the roads and pavements, as they slowly passed.

There was a mad scramble which lasted at least half an hour. We had a wonderful view from our little table.

I read later it was to symbolize the resurrection.  

Soon afterwards the streets were left completely deserted, as the locals went home for one of their most sacred lunches of the year.

Sweets were left all along the roads, we filled our pockets with a few as we left, they were little fruity flavoured boiled sweets, wrapped in clear plastic. 

 

It felt strange walking over piles of them, crunching like broken glass under our feet..

 

blog 24

A new life in Valencia...

Ancestors!

 

I was born in the Summer of 1968, in Southeast London. The street I lived in for the first nine years of my life, was filled with widows who lost their husbands young, in WW1 & WW11.  

 

I was always in one of their kitchens as they baked cakes, or cooked stews.

I can still remember all of their names, there was Mrs Ewins, Mrs Patel, Mrs Rogers, Mrs Brown, Mrs Nutley, Mrs Tribes and our next door neighbour Mrs Dorothy Griggs, who everyone called Griggy.

 

I adored them all, but Griggy was my favorite. I was in her home more than my own. She called everyone ducks or my ducks! 

 

In her garden she had a large shed with an old mangle in it, she would sit on a low wooden stool carefully guiding her washing through, as I turned its long handle.

 

She had a rose garden filled with several species of tall fragrant blooms, it was like a forest of razor sharp thorns and I dreaded my ball landing in the middle of it, which it often did!

There was a large water butt, that collected rain water from the roof of her shed, for watering them all.

Dorothy Griggs was a very short, rotund solidly built lady, in her early sixties. On days when the rag and bone man came down our street, on his horse and cart, all the ladies would dash out with their buckets and shovels. But Griggy always got their first! Precious manure for her roses. 

 

Griggy was the person everyone bought their sick animals or injured birds to.  She would stitch up wounds, remove stings, thorns, splinters or lumps with tweezers or a hot poultice. Or nourish them back to health with her chicken stew. 

 

Her home always had a huge canteen sized cooking pot on the stove top. I watched her make it so many times. Always a whole chicken would go in, bones and skin, with potatoes, carrots & onions. I can still remember the smell and cosiness of it today.

 

She was the only one in the street who had gold top, from the milk man. I can remember her being fanatical to get it inside, before the birds would come and peck through the golden shiny foil tops. Hoping to steal the cream from the top of the glass bottle.

 

 I can remember in the winter the milk would freeze and several inches of frozen cream would burst from the bottle. With the golden foil at its tip, it looked like it was wearing a hat.

 

Griggy gave most of her milk to me and the hedgehogs in her garden.

 

She was wonderfully independent and eccentric. She caught the bus several days each week, at the bottom of our street, and went into central London to work. 

 

She was a char lady (her words). For many years she worked for Mrs Finney, who was Albert Finney's mother (he was a famous actor in the 60,s & in Erin Brockovich in his later years.)  

 

After her long working day, I often joined her.  

We would sit up on her high bed, her large TV was placed at its foot, and watch her favorite programme, crossroads. 

 

She would pour a can of Guinness into a small glass and roll herself a cigarette from her little tin of tobacco and her rolling machine. 

And I would have a glass of milk and two malted milk biscuits.

 

Her bedroom was like a treasure trove, filled with posh ornaments and trinkets that she told me were gifts from her employers. Today upon reflection I think she may have been a bit of a magpie! 

 

There was a huge antique china Wemyss pig, covered in large burgundy roses. Dozens of Dresden ladies in their delicate ruffled porcelain lace dresses, a few of which I broke over the years playing with. 

 

Her dressing table was filled with glamorous french rouge, and Estee Lauder lipsticks and a menagerie of fancy elaborate powder compacts. Solid Silver hairbrushes and a strange face mirror made out of turtleshell, and dozens of ornate silver filigree perfume bottles.

 

In her bathroom on the black and white checkered floor, was a large set of scales with the words Harrods written across them. She poured her milk for her tea from a colourful art deco Clarice Cliff jug.  

 

The living room she called the parlour and was always kept immaculate with the door closed, ready for any unexpected guests or the doctor!

 

She had her front wall rebuilt by the boxer Henry Cooper, (before I was born). He was the British heavyweight boxing champion for twelve years, a claim to fame I would  hear her tell all the ladies in the street. 

He was regularly on the telly when I sat with her, advertising Brut aftershave, Splash it all over!

 

There was a bird aviary at the end of her garden filled with brightly coloured exotic birds. 

 

She sometimes had help around the place with tasks she said she couldn't manage. Peter her  handsome handy man, grew up in a children's home. She adored him and always referred to him as my Barnardos boy!. 

 

 

In the mid seventies my Dad rather eccentrically decided to purchase an iconic black London cab for our family car. I remember driving around with him and everywhere we went people would stick their hands out as we drove past. 

 

Me and my brother loved it as we had the whole back seat and two fold down seats to ourselves.

The best bit was the glass sliding screen separating us from our parents, smoking all their cigarettes. 

 

Unfortunately after several years,  it broke down on the M4 at the Membury services, on our way to our Summer holiday in Somerset. Thick smoke came from under its hood, it was to be our last journey in it..

 

 

 From as young as I could remember I was absolutely obsessed with shoes, and by age six and a half, I had the same sized feet as my mum, size 4. I would wear her high heeled shoes around the house and even sneak some out to parade about with my friends at the local play park.

 

My mum and nan regularly took me to Woolwich, it had my favourite shoe shop called Ravel.   I was allowed to go inside and look at all the fashionable shoes. Later I would draw them and dream about all the styles I had seen. Shoes were always top of my list every year for my birthday or Christmas present. 

 

I was a bridesmaid several times, only agreeing in the hope I would get a new pair of shoes!

 

After visiting several shoe shops we would visit the market then my mum and nans favourite pie and mash shop. They would both enjoy their beloved jellied eels, as I made a huge fuss, refusing to eat them or the bright green parsley liquor, poured over lumpy mashed potato.

 

 One Saturday morning me and mum went to Woolwich on the number 99 bus. Mum had heard on the radio something special was going on. We saw a large crowd had gathered so we went over to see, and Ed stewpot Stewart, from the weekend radio show children's choice, was cutting a very long ribbon. 

 

There was a really tall man dressed as a clown wearing a curly red wig, walking around handing out badges.

 

It turned out to be the first ever Macdonalds restaurant to open in the UK, in 1974. I had a milkshake and french fries. We went in every time we went to Woolwich after that. I am not much of a fan today but back then it was all very exciting..

 

 

From a young age I regularly used to walk the five mile round trip from our house to my nana and grandad's house. I loved being there, it was the hub of our family life, with cousins and second cousins aunts and uncles always about. And nana Audrey was always in the kitchen cooking something tasty.

 

After the war my grandad George worked for the royal mint, next to the tower of London. He would melt metals in hot furnaces to make new coins. It was considered a dirty and dangerous job working alongside poisonous gases and fierce heat. 

 

They also made gold sovereigns and bullions. A team of Met police were permanently stationed there for security!

 

I can remember my grandad telling me proudly that he had many work friends who were from the west indies. They started working there around the time he started, in the 1950s, having only just arrived from Jamaica. Now referred to as the Windrush Generation.

 

 In 1975 the last coin was pressed at the Tower Hill mint as the site had to be expanded and relocated to Wales.

 

 My grandad George retired and I saw a lot more of him. He got an allotment, even though he had a large garden, probably to get some peace and quiet from everyone. He grew garlic and onions and cabbages and started to keep pet rabbits.

 

 The rabbits quickly multiplied, resulting in him spending many hours in his large shed making hutches and runs for them all. I can still remember the smell inside that large cedarwood shed on a hot summer's day. It was a favorite hiding spot of mine during many games of hide and seek. 

 

We got used to seeing dozens of rabbits in pens happily playing in their garden.

 

I can remember my cousin Roger and I building a go cart, naughtily taking the wheels off my nana Audrey's shopping trolley! Then spending many hours driving it up and down in the street. 

 

We came home and all the rabbits had gone. We were told they had gone to a farm with more space to be happier, so we didn't feel too worried.

 

 Later all the family sat together around my grandparents' large dining table, as my nan presented a wonderful looking pie. Everyone tucked in, I can remember saying to my nana, this pie is very nice I love it, the chicken tastes really tasty. 

Then my uncle laughs and tells us all that it is in fact rabbit pie!! 

 

Probably why I am vegetarian today!. 

 

 

During the heatwave in the summer of 1976, the apple tree in our back garden was covered with thousands of ladybirds, and when we visited a nearby lido the whole surface of the water was a sea of red (ladybirds)..

 

 1977 was a particularly memorable year. My Dad left to work in Saudi Arabia, we all went to wave him off at heathrow airport. 

I can remember the excitement of receiving letters from him, and there was always sand inside the airmail envelope. My little brother and I saved the sand that came from every letter he sent us. It filled a small glass pill bottle which we kept for many years. 

 

Rather romantically my mum told us that the sand must have blown inside from the windy dessert as he sat writing. Many years later I rather disappointingly learnt that my dad had placed it in the envelopes, their little joke!

 

We all desperately missed him,  mum was sad without him, although there were some perks. I was allowed to stay up late on the weekends, to keep her company, enjoying Starsky and Hutch.

 

 I developed my first crush on Starsky. I defaced my new white lace up plimsoles, writing Starsky on the rubber toe cap and Hutch on the other.

 

 I was desperate to have a long chunky cream and brown belted cardigan like Starsky wore in the show. My nan in Somerset had become aware of my desire to have one and kindly agreed to knit one for my 9th birthday in July.

 

My Dads parents used to live around the corner from us, then when I was two in 1970 they retired and moved to Somerset. 

 

Every Summer since we have holidayed with them in the west country. They lived in a large detached house next to some stables, they had a little wooden gate at the end of their garden that accessed woodlands.  

We would arrive after our long journey from London, to the scent of sweet warm cakes, as just around the corner from my nans lane was a cake factory, called Hales cakes. They baked for Mr Kipling and Cadburys. 

Sometimes a loud whistle blew which meant the workers could go home.

 

It was a very different life for my nan who was born and raised in London, my grandad Cecil's family had run a dairy company in south London, delivering milk via a horse and cart before the war. 

 

My nan ran a very busy cafe serving traditional cooked English breakfasts then homemade cakes and tea in the afternoons. 

 

Unfortunately my grandad passed away very soon after they moved so my nan was quite lonely. She had made friends with several other ladies in the lane, but we came to visit every Summer and Easter or as often as we could. 

 

At the end of her lane was a very old church called All Saints church, the lane was called all saints lane. Opposite the church was a tiny village school called All saints. 

Unbeknown to me then, the man I would fall in love with and marry attended this school, during the years of our  holidays and visits here..    

 

 

It was the queen's silver jubilee and a huge street party was planned on our street in June, in fact the whole of London was swept away in the frenzy of the celebrations..

Tables were set up all along the avenue and decorated with fresh flowers and everything was red white and blue. 

 

I can remember a huge thunderstorm took place very late at night and the cat I had talked my mum into buying us from the Woolwich market, had kittens in my wardrobe!

We were allowed to keep one and I called her muppet, after my favorite show..

 

After enjoying several more weekly episodes of Starsky and Hutch, I was still longing for my Starsky cardigan.

 

 On the morning of my birthday, almost beside myself with excitement, I unwrapped the parcel my nana had sent from Somerset.

 

 It was beautifully knitted, and a perfect fit, she had made it long and with a belt.. But I was heartbroken as she had tragically used red white and blue wool, to coincide with the jubilee celebrations. Oh how I sulked!!.

 

 

August came with a different challenge, my mum was a huge Elvis Presley fan to the point of being obsessed I think would be fair to say. One night she came into our bedroom just howling with tears, holding a radio to her ear, telling us Elvis had died. 

It hit her hard, especially with my Dad still away.

 

My nana Audrey came to sit one evening so my mum and her friend June could go and see the film Saturday Night Fever at the cinema, in the hope of cheering her up. 

 

Mum didn't hide the fact that she had a thing about Italian men, and often told everyone it was why my brother was named Tony!

 

 

It did the trick she was dancing around the house for several weeks after, with the bee gees blaring out.

 

Thankfully my dad came home for a two week visit at Christmas, after being in the desert for six months.

 

When he went to leave for the airport, to return to the desert for a further six months of an agreed work contract, I can remember seeing her clinging to his legs at the front door, asking him not to go back, thankfully he stayed. 

 

Life was good, my mum was super happy, my dad bought her an eternity ring and new dress and they had a big party at the house.

 I was delighted to get a pair of much longed for Ravel shoes, they were black patent shiny leather with little heels and an ankle strap and I loved them.. 

 

 

But my life was about to change drastically, as mum and dad decided to leave London and move to Somerset for a new life and to no doubt keep my nana company (not my favorite person after cardigan gate!)

 

I left dozens of friends, cousins and family, trips to Woolich and petticoat lane markets and all things London behind and started my new life in Somerset..  

 

 

At my new modern junior school, I was called the London girl and teased for having big teeth, and a funny accent. But on the whole everyone seemed nice enough.

The first friend I made at school called Della, came to call for me  on her horse!

 

I swapped saturday mornings at woolich market for catching newts and tadpoles in nearby streams and brooks.

 

My mum was disappointed at first, often telling me no one talks to you here, everyone keeps themselves to themselves, she would say. 

When my mum left school her first job was working in Oxford street C&A. She met my dad in an Italian coffee lounge, it was love at first sight.  (Good job he had olive skin and black hair!)

 

My dad recently told me that when he was dating my mum, they used to go out with her cousins in east London. 

My mum and all the girls would dance or chat and drink baby sham, having a wonderful time, while my dad was left with all the partners who were gangsters, hoods and villains. (His words!)

 

 I remember mum telling me her cousins knew the kray brothers, It wasn't unusual as they grew up in the same neighbourhood.  In the 70,s I can remember my uncle Alec, he was thick set with jet black hair, greased back, like a character from the sopranos. 

He had a boxers broken nose and always wore black trousers a crisp white shirt and a full length camel wool coat. I remember being fascinated with his huge gold ring he wore on his little finger.

 

Mum got a job in a busy bakery in the town, where she quickly made some new friends. She enjoyed reading local history books about the cider works, the wurzels and old glass works where the cider bottles were made.  

 

She took me on the bus to Bristol and to my delight there was a Ravel. This cheered me up and I chose a new pair of school shoes, they were maroon leather Mary Jane,s with a wavy chunky rubber sole. I loved them and felt the bees' knees at my new school..

 

The film Grease came out that Summer, You're the one that I want was number one at the time of my 10th birthday. I got my first ever LP, the soundtrack from grease and I learnt every word to every song on it..

 

Unfortunately by age 11 in 1979, my feet had grown to a size 8, which was a complete tragedy. Women's shoes only went up to a size 7 and I was only an 11 yr old girl!

No more shoes from Ravel. 

 

Clarks offered one choice, in an 8. I was so depressed about it. I started the comprehensive school, very reluctantly wearing my Clarks frumpy lace ups. They were so boring and ugly, it broke my heart.

 

For years I would tell everyone who knew me that one day I would open a shoe shop selling all the latest fashion shoes in a size 8. 

 

Fortunately a few years later by 1982 some shops started catering for girls with larger feet, including my beloved Ravel.

 

But not convinced enough to stock many, they would sell out very fast. It was often the case that the shoe I asked for had no size 8s left, then my second and third choice, it was still awful.. 

 

Around thirty years later, I ran into someone I had gone to comprehensive school with. The first thing he asked me was how my shoe shop was doing! 

 

After the years of bringing up my three Daughters and living life, I'd completely forgotten about my dreams of the shoe shop. It really took me back and made me smile..

 

 When nana Audrey retired from a career as head cook and supervisor in school kitchens, she spent many hours each week researching her family history. 

It was the days before computers and she had to go into central London to St Catherine's house, where all the birth deaths and marriage records were held. It became almost an obsession for her and kept her extremely busy. (which she loved!)

 

I lost both my nana Audrey and mum in my early thirties.

Mum left me a box with a few precious handwritten notes and some photo copies, of some basic family history details. My nan had given her, in case I got curious one day.

 

Around the time of my fiftieth birthday I finally felt the urge to open the box, read the notes and sign up to an ancestry site.. 

 

 

 

My mum's father, my granddad, George was born in Plumstead south east London in 1916, when WW11 started in 1939, he was 23. 

 

He joined the Navy and was part of a crew stoking the fires in the engine room on a submarine called HMS Porpoise.

 

After several successful undersea missions, around the Mediterranean, sinking seven enemy ships, his captain Leslie Bennington was awarded a promotion and tasked with conducting several special missions to sink Japanese vessels. Mostly in the far east around Penang and the Malacca straits.

 

He could take whomever he requested from his porpoise crew then was ordered to go up to Tyneside to join a larger, new submarine called the HMS Tally- Ho.

 

About half of the Porpoise crew decided to join him and headed up to Tynesside. George and one of his comrades were put up in a small guest house near Whitby bay. 

They sat awaiting their evening meal, both desperately hungry, when the rather brash elderly owner of the guest house presented them with two plates of tripe. 

 

The owner's niece, a young girl of 18, noticed the look of horror on the two young men's faces. After having a little laugh to herself, feeling sorry for them, when her aunt had gone out, she made them both some egg and chips. 

 

They say a way to a man's heart is through his stomach!

George fell instantly in love, and she thought he was very handsome in his navy uniform.

 

The girl had been working as a Clippy (bus conductor) in Wallsend, collecting fares and issuing tickets on the buses. While the men were away at war, young girls were expected to fill their jobs..

 

They wrote to one another and their love blossomed, she moved to Essex where she worked on a farm, to be nearer to George during his shore leave.

 One day while out working in the fields, she waved, jumping up and down as a fighter plane flew past, but it turned then started to spray bullets towards her and her friend, they put their metal buckets over their heads as they ran for cover. (Obviously not a British plane!)

 

The HMS Tally-Ho went on to sink many enemy vessels, my grandad George and its crew feature in a Pathe news film, also in many photos in the British war museum, one with my grandad receiving his medal for distinguished service, as lead stoker. 

There have been many books written about the accomplishments of the crew and they were awarded medals for outstanding courage.

 

If George had decided to stay on his original submarine HMS Porpoise, fate would have served him a different hand, as it was the last boat sunk in the war!

 

Once the war ended George and the girl, (my nana Audrey) got married settling in south east London where they raised their four children..

 

 

George's mother, my great grandmother, Catherine Alice was born in 1885 in the heart of London's east end. To parents called Thomas and Elizabeth. Known as Tom and Lizzy. 

She grew up in the same street her Dads family had lived, dating back several generations.The street was called fashion street, located between Spitalfields and Whitechapel. 

 

When Catherine was just three years old and her mother Lizzy was 29, their neighbourhood was rocked to its core by the terrifying gruesome crimes of Jack the Ripper.

At least five women were murdered in the Whitechapel and Spitalfields district. Fashion Street was known for its common lodging houses and two of the ripper's victims were lodging in Fashion street at the time of their deaths. 

 

The local pub called the ten bells, which was at the end of the road, was where victim Annie Chapman was drinking the night she was murdered. Another ripper victim, Mary Kelly was said to pick up her clients regularly just outside the pub.

 

I can only imagine the fear that my great great grandmother Lizzie must have lived through. 

She almost certainly would have drank in the local pub, as the family had been living in the same street for several generations. She may even have known one of the victims. 

 

Catherine's grandmother and my great great great grandmother Caroline, was born in Stepney in 1836. She lived at number 23a Baker street  as a young child, in Marylebone. The same street as the fictitious detective Sherlock Holmes! 

It was known to be a prosperous area.

At age 19 she married Arthur in 1855, later moving to Spitalfields into Arthur's parents home, in fashion street, after maybe falling on hard times.

 

Charles Dickens wrote Oliver Twist in 1837, a year after Caroline was born. Dickens was greatly inspired by the poverty and squalid conditions of both spitalfields and whitechapel. 

 

Fagin's dens were set in Whitechapel, which were a hallmark of Victorian London's criminal underworld and poverty of the area at the time..

 Dickens wrote about muddy streets, pickpockets and workhouses. 

 

Unfortunately at the age of 63 Caroline my great great great grandmother passed away in the local workhouse infirmary..

 

Charles Dickens has long been my favourite author, I also adore most films and TV adaptations of his stories. I knew I had ancestors living at the time in the neighbourhoods he so richly describes in his books.

 

I particularly recommend Roman Polanski's gritty film adaptation of Oliver Twist, from 2005 featuring Ben kingsley as Fagin. 

 

 

Caroline's mother and my great great great great grandmother Susannah was born in 1816 in Shoreditch east London. 

She worked as a book binder, which was considered a skilled craft and respectable trade, compared with the filthy, sometimes dangerous conditions of factory work. Or the low pay of domestic service. 

 

 Susannah fell in love marrying James when she was 22. At a church in Bethnal green.

 

James worked as a paper hanger or bill sticker in Whitechapel. Putting up advertising posters for businesses, police crime posters and upcoming theatre shows. 

 

Unfortunately he met with a nasty accident resulting in him dying from a fractured skull. Making Susannah a widow, with a young child. 

I have wondered if it was due to him falling from a great  height, while trying to hang a bill board poster. Or perhaps he was attacked, we will have to come to our own conclusions.

 

Fortunately Susannah climbed back, supporting herself and daughter Caroline and became a general dealer, which leans more towards being a shop keeper. As a street trader was known as a hawker back then. 

She lived to 84 which was considered a good age..

 

 

For me this is where it gets fascinating. .

Susannah,s father, my great great great great great grandfather Richard, possibly Ricardo. Was born in 1780 and lived and worked in the Shoreditch area in the east end of London.

His occupation was a cordwainer. What on earth is a cordwainer I asked myself when reading through his records. 

A cordwainer is a maker of fine shoes! Not to be confused with a common cobbler, but a shoe maker who works traditionally with the finest goatskin leather from Cordoba Spain! 

 

This resonated deep within me , I felt  I had unlocked a key to a hidden door. 

And just maybe it could explain my obsession for shoes and shoe designs as a child! 

My eldest daughter also used to spend many hours drawing different shoe designs when she was little, with out any prompting from me.

 

After lots of reading and researching over the past few years, 

I believe either he or his father came with their trade as a shoe maker from Spain. 

I also believe him to have been Jewish, as most shoe makers in Shoreditch at that time were. 

Also he called his daughter Susannah, and the name Hannah comes up several times in the family line, which I have been told was a popular Jewish name. Also the fact that she was taught a craft like bookbinding, involving sewing, folding and gilding.

 

I believe it is very probable that he or perhaps his father was escaping death or persecution during the time of the Spanish inquisition. 

Which was from 1478-1834.

Around 3,000 Shepardic Jews from Spain and Portugal arrived in London's east end (including Shoreditch) fleeing the inquisition, with the largest numbers arriving between 1720 and 1730. 

As persecutions in Spain intensified..  

 

Spain was quite unusual as for around seven hundred years, Christians Muslims and Jews had lived together in harmony. But things were about to drastically change.

 

In 1478 Spain was ruled by Catholic monarchs Queen Isobella and her husband king Ferdinand, and they commanded that everyone in the land converted to Christianity. Apparently all Catholics are also Christians.

 

Spanish Jews or Muslims were forced to choose between full conversion, exile or death.

 

 

The head of the church brought it to the attention of the monarchs that some people were only agreeing to conform to Christianity to avoid death or exile. While still practicing their own original religions, behind closed doors. 

 

So the heads of the catholic church with the blessing of the monarchs set up the inquisition, to flush any pretenders out.

 This lasted over three hundred and fifty years!

 

Most were burnt at the stake, or brutally flogged in public squares, as others were given prison terms for life in squalid dark conditions.. 

 

Much to my amazement I read from several sources, that the catholic church during their inquisition used eating pork, particularly sausages, as a way to out the betrayer.

 

Knowing full well that it was forbidden for both practicing Jews and Muslims to eat pork!

 

The Catholic church literally made eating pork an authenticity test of being a true Christian.

 

Making pork a symbol of religious loyalty!

 

During these times it became tradition that all homes had sausages hanging up, so neighbours or passers by would know they were good Christians!

 

There were obviously still some Jewish people pretending to be Christians while still bravely practising Judaism in private. 

So they carefully crafted their own secret sausages. Made from chicken and other meats, using the same strong-smelling spices, garlic and herbs, that were in the regular pork ones.

Then they were hung up to fool neighbours and passers by..  I loved reading this!.

 

A couple of years after discovering my ancestor, the shoe maker. I decided to send away a swab from the inside of my cheek saliva, to an American DNA testing company. 

The results took several months to come back but they showed that 4% of my DNA was from the Iberian peninsula. 

Confirming my own conclusions that my 6 or 7 times great grandfather, was very probably from Spain or Portugal. 

I have recently been discovering that Spain has a very rich history in shoe making, and I will let you know if I find out any more about my ancestor..

 

Rather amusingly the irony is not lost on me, several hundred years later, (for rather different reasons) like my ancestor, I am also trying my best to avoid eating pork in Spain! 

 

 

 

 

My great grandmother Catherine Alice, in the middle, with her sisters.

The ten bells pub, Whitechapel during the 1800,s

Charles Dickens,s... Oliver Twist

Terrifyingly high, Victorian bill board posters!...Me age 11, with size 8 feet!..Starsky and that cardigan!

blog 25

A new life in Valencia
Our second year..
Upside down Pineapples!
 

 

 

Mid April brought unseasonably high temperatures, continued drought and more wildfires!

This week Tarbena, in neighbouring Alicante, had a  forest fire spanning over 500 hectares. 200 people were evacuated for several nights, as military troops and fire fighters fought it.

A wildfire also raged in the mountains up behind Benidorm, even our town had a fire on a large patch of wasteland, opposite our local Lidl.

We only popped out for some wine, but ended up watching for over an hour, as helicopters dropped huge bags of sea water over the high flames.

Water for agricultural use has now been cut by 80%, as Spain's historic drought continues..

 

 

Ona called out to me the other morning, I could hear her saying “psssst chica, chica” from over her wall.

She presented me with a box filled with fruit, resembling small orange pears. 

I read they are called Nisperos, packed with beta carotene and other powerful antioxidants.  

I had never seen or heard of them before, they were very ripe so I had to decide what to do with them all pretty quickly.

They tasted sweet and delicately fragrant, and in the middle were dark brown shiny seeds, like little chestnuts.

I made a spicy relish, which went heavenly with crackers and cheese, for the next few months..

At the market this week it was obviously Asparagus season, as stalls were piled impressively high with them.

 I bought four large bundles for just a couple of Euros, they looked so healthy and fresh, I was excited to get home and decide how best to use them..

 

Cycling home I passed a small school, and stopped to take a photo of a stunning mural of a young girl. Painted on the side of its tall building.

 

As I pushed my bike to rejoin the cycle path, I noticed through the gaps in the fence that the playground was filled with dozens of pairs of red shoes!

Curiosity got the better of me, and I read that a teacher at the school was inspired by a Mexican artist, called Elina Chauvet. 

Asking the children to bring in pairs of old shoes, which they painted bright red.

On March 8th, International women's day, fifty eight pairs were placed as an art installation around the playground. 

To acknowledge the 58 women in Spain who were killed by their partners or X partners, over the past year!

Quite a sobering read, but I do admire how proactive the town is in trying to raise awareness. 

There is a billboard sign as you enter, saying it will not tolerate domestic abuse.

Since 2004 shouting at your partner or spouse here, is treated as a criminal act, In the home and in public spaces. In the hope of cooling tensions down before escalating into violence.

If you hear anyone shouting, generally people go outside to investigate where it is coming from. If reported, police will come and take away the person or persons and lock them up overnight . 

Resulting in fines or prison sentences.

 

Good job we didn't move here in our earlier years,  when passions ran high.

One occasion just came to mind, around twenty five years ago, while both queuing for a Sunday breakfast in a supermarket cafe. 

We had been bickering about something and my husband had just finished giving me a ticking off. 

He went quiet so I decided it was my turn to get my point across, as I was quite upset with him. In full flow, I noticed he was staying unusually silent and had a rather smug look about him. 

As I turned around I saw all the people at the checkouts were staring at me, along with everyone sitting in the busy cafe. They all had very stern looks directed towards me. 

The penny finally dropped, it was the two minute silence for remembrance Sunday, and I had been the only one talking, and quite loudly. Oh the shame!! 

Thankfully today we are more mature and passions don't run so high!..

 

With my large haul of Asparagus I decided to make a simple soup, using the rest for posh soldiers, to dip in our soft boiled eggs for breakfast. 

Snapping off the woody ends then laying the thick juicy tips on a hot dry griddle pan, to scorch for a couple of minutes. 

An absolute treat I highly recommend..

 

I am still doing my twice weekly yoga class up on the roof terrace, in the old town. It's getting very warm up there, I hope we will return to the beach soon, when the winds drop.

I have been enjoying more time at the beach recently, due to the warmer weather. 

The invasive seaweed is still piled up high all along the shoreline, looking very tatty, also making it tricky to get in the sea. 

I am longing for the town's two lidos to open at the start of the Summer season. Thankfully I notice they are both full of water, so the ban on re-filling swimming pools shouldn't affect them opening..

 

We recently had a lovely day in El Portet, it's a beautiful bay between Javea and Calpe. 

We parked up for free, then walked along a high coastal path into the town of Moraira, strolling around its narrow  lanes, filled with little shops, restaurants and bars. 

Stopping, to share a small tub of delicious coconut ice cream, in a cool air conditioned parlour.

We continued walking to the end of the town's coastline, towards Calpe. Which we could clearly see in the distance, like a foreboding metropolis.

There were several really nice restaurants, one had its terrace overhanging the beach, tempting us to stop for a much needed cold drink, and some lunch.

I enjoyed a plate of grilled Sardines, and my husband had a decent bowl of nachos, with an abundance of fresh guacamole.

Like oranges, avocados are grown all over the Valencian province, one big plus for vegetarians!

We walked back slowly enjoying the glorious views, eventually returning to the beautiful small cove of El Portet. 

We both went straight in for a swim to cool off. It was pebbly and the sea was free from any seaweed, it also got deep quickly, unlike our shallow beach. 

We swam and floated about together, feeling happy and fortunate..

 

We have at last received news about our visa renewals, they have been approved, this time they will be valid for two years!   

We've just had our fingerprints taken again at the police station, so hopefully our new ID cards/visas will arrive in a few weeks.

I am desperate to see everyone, as I've not been back to England since arriving here eighteen months ago!

 

I am excited that my eldest daughter and three grandchildren are coming for this year's festival of San Juan, next month. 

We have been busy collecting driftwood and old pallets for the past few months, for our first fire on the beach.. 

 

Our daughter in NZ is doing well, she started selling her art around local flea markets, now several shops stock her art. She has sold original works from exhibitions, and has been featured in NZ homes & garden magazine. 

She also has had the honour of being asked to do the front cover of a local mountain culture magazine, called 1964. Apparently named after the year that the Mount Aspiring National park was founded..

 

Earlier this week we visited the stunning gardens of Jardin de l' Albarda, Alicante.

It was a very warm day, the temperature has crept up to the low thirties over the past few days, so I was hoping to enjoy some shade.

After paying our small entrance fee, to a handsome young man in his tiny wooden hut, we walked under pagoda tunnels, covered with fruiting lemon trees. Through fragrant rose gardens, passing statues and artistic structures. My favourite was a large metal whale.

Dozens of exotic palms were lined up on either side of a long narrow path, guiding you towards an impressive palm grove. 

There were fragrant botanical gardens set amongst stunning Moorish fountains, and colourful tiled mosaics.

Its charming large house, in the centre with its exterior covered in rambling Jasmine, Bougainvillea and Ivy. 

It overlooked a glorious huge rectangular swimming pool, which was completely secluded by cypress trees. Its water was temptingly glistening under the clear blue skies.  

Oh how I was tempted to jump in and steal a few lengths!

At the cafe we sat under a canopy of shade from a sprawling tree, enjoying our cold lemonades.  As turkeys and peacocks roamed around, eyeing us suspiciously.

Next we came across its stunning orangery, which had steps like an amphitheatre, housing a huge collection of potted Mediterranean coastal plants and giant cacti. 

I sat and watched as water mesmerisingly cascaded down a fountain. Gently trickling into a pool, filled with  bright orange coy carp.

It was so tranquil I didn't want to leave.

 

Feeling inspired, we visited a garden centre on the way home..

Our balcony is coming on quite well, my bird of paradise is in full bloom.

The tiny Aloe Vera I bought for a couple of euros from the market last Summer, now has a single flower stem, which is taller than me! Ive never had one that has flowered before, it's obviously very happy.

The Bougainvillea has climbed from its pot and sprawled to the top of the louvered wooden door. Yukkas and palms have had to be repotted several times as they are all growing like mad.

Lately I have been thinking how happy they would be if I planted them into the ground. Allowing their roots to run deep, to keep cool. 

I also long for a garden again.

We have been keeping one eye on the housing market just in case anything tempting comes along.

Something rustic with a plot, we could bring back to life, would be ideal. I am sure Watson would love a garden again too.

Some of the online property listings are interesting, most have a filter choice option, offering properties without squatters!

One recent listing advertised a property that included an elderly person to remain living in the property until their death. This was only written in the small print at the bottom of the sales details!!

It just amazes me the difference in culture.

When looking at properties in the old town, soon after arriving, we would ask to view a property and the agent told us we couldn't view for several months. 

Due to an ill elderly family member living in a room at the front of the house. 

 

This happened three times!.

In my  Spanish class this week we learnt about el clima, (the weather).

Caliante is hot, frio is cold, lluvia (pronounced you bia) is rain, and viento is wind.

Just lately it has been mucho caliente, a new phrase I say to all my neighbours. Although Pedro and Ona have only recently stopped having wood smoke coming from their chimney!

Next week we are learning about foods. The teacher has asked us to bring in itemised receipts from our supermarket shops.

We mostly shop at Mercadona as we have two large ones in the town, they are the largest national supermarket chain throughout Spain and have Valencian roots.

They nearly exclusively sell Spanish goods, working with over 150 produce suppliers  throughout Spain.

I do find shopping there sometimes limiting, I am so used to seeing all the American brands in most UK supermarkets.  

They have no pickle, relish or hot sauces, which is why I have been so keen to make my own.  

They only stock Spanish wines, some great ones are priced around two euros a bottle, so no complaints there.  

My favourite wines include a bold red Tempranillo, called the Governor, (£2.00) a bottle, and Enterizo Crianza, which is a blend of Tempranillo and Bobel, for (£1.50).

 A very good dry sparkling Spanish Cava costs (£2.80)

There is no vegetarian frozen food, but they do sell large glass jars of plump butter beans and chick peas, also dried black beans which I use a lot. 

They also sell dried soya, which I buy and attempt to make a decent vegetarian sausage. After spending several hours making them, they are ok, but not as good as my favourite Cauldron ones, from the UK. 

 I get our visitors to smuggle packets of them in their luggage!

The fresh fish counter is good though. I regularly buy ten huge langoustines (prawns), the size are from the tip of my thumb to my wrist, and I pay around four euros (£3.50).

It took me a while getting used to the limited range of choice, but the quality is fabulous.

It's obviously great for the Spanish economy and its farmers and growers. 

I have recently heard if you visit a Mercadona between the hours of seven and eight pm, put a fresh Pineapple upside down in your basket, and hang around the wine aisle, it means you're feeling frisky and up for potential romantic connections. 

Good to know!.

I must admit I buy a 6 pack of frozen Warburtons crumpets from a local international shop, (for 4.99!) and Marmite, some things I just cant live without!

 

Earlier this week, my American friend invited us ladies from the yoga class to her home, where she led a painting class in her garden.

I baked some little Greek spinach and feta pastries, and the host made a delicious spread. We sat around a large table in the shade for several hours, sipping Cava as we followed her guided painting session.

At the end, as we lined up with our canvases for a photo. It became apparent I was the only one who had painted my subject on the right, everyone else correctly did theirs on the left. 

Story of my life getting left and right mixed up!.

 

It is May half term in England and my brother and his family are holidaying in Benidorm. 

I was excited as we drove south for an hour on the motorway to visit them for the day. It was quite a culture shock as we walked around, crowds of older men were sitting at bars topless, displaying their bright red beer bellies.

Dozens of disability type scooters were parked in long lines outside the bars. It was so crowded at the beach you could hardly see any remaining sand left to sit on. 

Fortunately we spent the day at their very nice hotel. I enjoyed swimming in the outside pool with my young nephew. 

It was wonderful to catch up with them, as we hadn't seen each other since our family picnic on Dartmoor almost twenty months ago!. 

 

We were back in the hills between Altea and Benidorm the following week, visiting the natural fresh pools and waterfalls of l' Font d Agar. 

Several friends had recommended it and we wanted to go before it got too hot and busy, during the summer.

It was lovely and I really enjoyed myself, swimming in all the cool fresh water, climbing through little caverns and bathing under waterfalls.

 I was glad we had arrived  early as by lunchtime it was getting very busy.

We had gathered that resorts and hotels in Benidorm and Altea offered excursions here, judging by all the mini buses, and coaches we passed on our way out!

After a few hours of swimming and floating around we headed up to the quieter higher ground. We found a good spot for our picnic lunch with fantastic views over the valley below, which was filled with avocado and nispero farms.

People hardly ever seem to picnic here, I now know it is illegal to do so on all Valencian beaches!

 I feel it's generally looked down on, I guess as it takes business away from the cafes and restaurants.

 

I can remember many years ago when we were still in our twenties, camping child free in the South of France. 

We romantically spent the morning gathering a glorious picnic, baguettes, several cheeses, vine tomatoes, strawberries and a nice local rosé, from the town's produce market. 

We found a lovely park close to the beach of Cannes and laid out our gorgeous spread, on the grass, under a tree.

 After only a few minutes a policeman came running towards us blowing a whistle loudly, waving his hands about shouting “Non Non Non!" 

We had to pick everything up and move. When he had left we found a nearby bench, still in the park and started to lay everything back out again.

 But he returned moments later very annoyed, insisting we put everything in a nearby bin. Which we did to avoid being arrested!. 

Apparently there it is viewed as something only hobos and tramps do. Unlike in England where a picnic is seen as a glorious thing.

I can remember as a young child when it took all day to travel from London to Cornwall, with long queues of traffic jams.

Families would pull over by the side of the road, sitting on the grass keenly enjoying sandwiches with a flask of tea.  

Oh I do love a good picnic..

 

 

For a good while now, we have been cursing a driver who stops near our apartment, pressing a really noisy car horn several times, most mornings. 

We had assumed it was someone picking up a friend or colleague, but we finally discovered much to my delight, it's a white transit van, filled with fresh croissants, baguettes and pastries!

From one of the patisseries in the town, all those wasted months of not realising this!!

We now refer to him as bun man! Keeping a little dish of coins on the hall table, ready to dash downstairs when he comes.

He beeps his horn before he arrives on our road and again when it stops outside our apartment block, driving every dog in the neighbourhood crazy.

There's one who always knows he's coming, several seconds before he even honks the first horn. Setting off dozens of other dogs in anticipation, including Watson!

When I take Watson for his evening strolls around our neighbourhood, he looks forward to seeing all the other dogs, the same dogs we see every day. There are at least fifteen of them, plus more we can hear but not see, due to high walls or fencing.

If one is not out as we pass he is disappointed so we wait for several minutes until they appear. Most are very friendly, and spend all day outside in a shady spot, protecting their properties, barking wildly as anyone approaches.

Some are pets, but a high number of dogs in the area are used for property security and hunting. Unfortunately, It is not uncommon to see some chained up all day and night in yards or gardens. 

My friend has come across several that have been abandoned, or escaped from unhappy scenarios, with chains still attached around their necks. 

She has taken them to the local animal rescue centre, which is run by English ladies. I sadly learn that it is quite common for dogs to be left abandoned when they are pregnant or no longer useful.

They have a charity shop in the town to raise funds for the shelter, and I have recently been seriously considering offering my services as a volunteer. 

My friend regularly walks the rescued dogs, but I would find it too hard to resist those sad eyes and no doubt end up with an apartment full of dogs! 

But as a previous charity shop manager, I will pop in to see if they need help, in the shop..

 

I have seen dogs out walking themselves around the busy town. One I watched as he used the zebra crossing,  looking left and right before stepping off the curb, I was stunned. 

He was a cute little fellow, I followed him for ages thinking he was lost. Later asking around the English bars up in the old town, and on the local face book group.

Eventually I found out he wasn't lost, he just gets let out every day and walks around the old town and paseo. Thankfully managing to safely cross the very busy main road that separates the two!

Most cats in the area are wild rather than domesticated. I often pass them sleeping under hedges, or in the gardens of derelict properties, sometimes with a litter of tiny kittens.

I remember when we first arrived, sat outside the burger king at the beach, when several wild cats surrounded us, as we ate our vege whoppers!

Sometimes walking Watson I notice them sitting on shady window sills, having slinked through the thin metal security bars, offering protection from any passing dog.

They can be quite feisty, one ran up to Watson out of nowhere and started swiping at his face,(maybe protecting her nearby kittens?). 

He is very wary now, when he sees one in the distance, he tries to play it cool, thinking I haven't yet noticed it. Suggesting we cross over, turn around or take another street!

Some local vets will spay young female cats for free, and their fees generally are much cheaper than in the UK.  Some kind people,(mostly older ladies) leave out plastic trays of dried kibble, fish guts and water..

 

As we head into June, young families and old ladies from the town are busy relocating to their beach houses for the Summer. I am delighted that the marina lido has finally opened and I have enjoyed several blissful quiet swims.

The Madridians have recently started to arrive in droves and the chirenguittas are starting to pop up along our beach.

A hive of excitement has filled the air as the festival of San Juan, will soon announce the start of the region's Summer season..

 

Unfortunately the day before the fiesta, the town's mayor announced a blanket ban on fireworks, fires and BBQs! On the only night of the year they are allowed on the beaches!

The mayor also announced on social media that teams of police would be patrolling the beaches to make sure. Oh how disappointed we were, especially since our grandchildren had just arrived to celebrate it with us.

It was said to be for caution due to all the recent wild fires in the region, as strong winds were forecast. Next to the sea should be safe enough, surely?.

 

On the nit de san Juan we met up with some friends on the beach. 

I had packets of glow sticks for the kids and made mini pizzas,  a friend had made glorious carrot cake and quiches. But it just wasn't the same without the fires, there was a cool wind too, such a contrast to last year's Brazilian party atmosphere.

You could feel the lingering disappointment in the air, the town's youth were especially gutted. It didn't help that both towns in either direction along our coast were still allowed to celebrate with their beach fires, BBQs and fireworks.

Once dark it fell quite flat. Not quite managing to stay until midnight, around 11.45pm as we were leaving the beach my grandson shouted to me, Nana Nana, look at the mountain, is it on fire? 

We turned and looked back and the mountain, Mont go, framing the southern end of the beach was now literally glowing. 

Everyone on the dark beach stood up, and after a few minutes a huge stunning full moon rose to its summit.

It was the biggest and most beautiful full moon I had ever witnessed, lighting up the beach showing the crowds of people that had been sitting in the dark moments before. 

The dark sea now shimmering bright beneath the huge moons glow.

As if knowing how disappointed everyone had been with the strict bans, mother nature gave us a show to remember forever!.

 

 

The kids enjoyed several days swimming in the town's newly opened lido, and chocolate croissants each day from bun man! 

One morning as I queued with them at his van, two South American men joined the long line, both dressed in very short, snug fitting dressing gowns. They looked like a couple of Mexican cartel members, and rather amusingly stood out like sore thumbs among all the little old ladies. 

I noticed they had been renting the small house opposite for the past few weeks, they have a lovely sandy coloured dog..

We also have new neighbours in the apartment underneath ours, a lovely young couple from Argentina and Ecuador. They came into our apartment recently, as they needed to fit a net enclosure, covering their entire balcony. They are getting some cats..

 

The Spanish government is actively encouraging people from Latin American countries to emigrate to Spain. To help fill the shortfall of work in its hospitality and care sectors. 

Obviously sharing ancestral history, speaking the language and being used to the hot climate, must make it an attractive prospect. 

Personally I am excited and looking forward to them bringing their wonderful foods, as eating out in traditional Spain can get tiresome. 

We recently discovered a Venezuelan restaurant and it was fabulous.

We ate plantain, fresh salsas and vibrant sauces, with black beans, and guacamole. Served with homemade Venezuelan melting cheese, with fluffy homemade breads, like round pittas. 

All naturally vegetarian and It tasted divine..

 

Walking Watson a couple of weeks later, the little sandy coloured dog in the garden opposite had his nose poking through the wooden gate, so we stopped to say hello.

I noticed one of the men standing under the shady porch, who was again dressed in his snug short dressing gown, and smoking something exotic.

Our eyes met, feeling a bit awkward, in my best pigeon Spanish, I asked him the dog's name. It's Simba he said, I said ah from the lion king.

He looked at me blankly, so I burst rather animatedly into the opening lines of the theme tune, while holding my hands up to the sky. He started laughing, saying “Si el rey Leon”.

 I later read, In Spain and Latin America the Lion King is called el Rey Leon, The King Lion!.

 

It was the last night of our daughter's stay. The weather was glorious so we spent the evening at the beach, enjoying wine and nibbles on a blanket at the shoreline. As the children played in the sea on their body boards.

A while later, I started to notice several fishermen on the jetty were standing up and pointing down into the water. People from the beach bar behind us started to do the same. 

I followed their gazes and saw a huge fin moving in a wide circle a few metres behind the kids.

I shot up loudly shouting “SHARK!! kids get out quick SHARK!!” It was terrifying.

Two men ran into the water, as my grandson turned around and finally saw the large fin, grabbing his little sister moving as quick as he could to the shore.

Several more men went into the water, surrounding the creature now thrashing about, it became obvious that the large fish was in trouble.

After many failed attempts by the brave men to help guide it out to deeper waters, eventually the large sea creature came into the shallows.

Huge crowds and several police had lined up along the shore. Rather annoyingly the police stood directly in front of our blanket, so we had to quickly hide our wine and little picnic!

It turned out to be a giant manta ray, its span was the size of a small car, its large fin had now dropped on its side. 

 

After several hours we unfortunately saw it take its last few breaths, it was all very sad in the end.

I later read several have washed up in Eastern Spain recently, measuring up to three metres. No one knows why, but local marine biologists are keeping a close eye and tagging and monitoring the young rays.

 

 I am sure the children will remember the evening forever, one thing is for certain I will be even more cautious when taking a dip, from now on. 

After mountain roads with long drops, Sharks are my second biggest fear. No doubt I have Steven Spielberg to thank for that!

New blog coming soon..

Blog 26

Our New Life in Valencia
Our second year..
Mr Trust House Forte!

 

 

The first heatwave of the year arrived on my 56th birthday!

We decided to stick to our plans and take a boat trip from Denia. It was already very warm as we set sail late morning, and the sea breeze was very welcome.

In just over an hour we moored up in the beautiful coastal town of Javea. Unfortunately in the farthest corner of its port, having to walk in the scorching heat with no shade, until we finally arrived in the town.

I was just starting to seriously wilt, when we came across a wonderful looking Austrian bakery. The perfect place to enjoy some birthday cake!

After admiring their impressive selection I settled on a Tartaletta de Frambuesa (a raspberry tart), which was delicious!

We attempted to sit on the beach, but without a parasol it was just too hot. It was now around 100 degrees C, so we decided to catch an earlier boat back. 

To be honest it was the boat trip with it's cool breeze that was the attraction for me, we could come back to Javea another time.

Having walked back to the far end of the port, with no sign of a boat or any shade, I decided to climb down into the water. Carefully standing on a large rock, between two moored up fishing boats. 

Blissfully submerging my shoulders under the water to cool down.

Our boat arrived, empty except its small crew and a large lively family (possibly gitanos).

We were entertained the whole way back, by one of them playing his flamenco guitar. Which was utterly glorious.

Unfortunately, the elderly lady with the group, who had decided to come and sit so close, was almost touching me. 

Had a terrible issue with flem! Spending the entire journey loudly clearing her throat and spitting over the side! 

I was too scared to make a fuss as I didn't want to risk being cursed, especially not on my birthday..

 

Our visas and new ID cards have finally arrived and I am going back to England. Obviously I am super excited but I am not a keen flyer.

My husband has to stay home with our dog, making it my first flight alone!.

The morning of my flight, he dropped me off at Alicante airport and we said our goodbyes. 

With dozens of butterflies fluttering around in my tummy, I walked inside and followed signs to the departure area. 

I only had a small backpack, which I had filled to the max. So I had no luggage to check in. (My husband's bright idea!)

Before too long I was sitting in the departure lounge, keeping one eye on the screen to see what gate I had to head to for boarding. 

I had taken a sedative earlier, thankfully stopping my overactive imagination thinking of every worst case scenario.

It was soon time to board the plane, I entered from the back steps and found my pre-booked seat. I prefer an aisle seat, so I don't feel hemmed in. 

This proved to be money well spent, as two extremely large men were already sitting in the window and middle seats. I carefully squeezed myself into my seat, putting my bag underneath.

The man next to me honestly looked like an ageing Russian mobster. I didn't get to hear him speak to confirm this, as he spent the entire flight fast asleep. 

With his large heavy head, snoring loudly on my shoulder!.

 

Once through customs at Bristol I went straight to M and S foods and purchased their best prawn cocktail sandwich (an old favourite). Then I walked to collect my hire car.

I was excited as I hadn't driven in over 20 months. I was offered a free upgrade, which I flatly turned down. Preferring  the basic manual small car, I had carefully booked. He looked quite put out!

Five minutes later I was back inside asking him how on earth I started the car. Explaining I had driven an old mini cooper for the past 10 years, and had no idea about new fancy cars.

Fortunately he was kind and showed me it started with a button on the dashboard, rather than the key.  It also rather alarmingly didn't have a handbrake. 

He assured me the car would just know when to stop on its own. I avoided hills the entire trip!. 

 

England looked so beautiful and green as I drove past pretty Somerset villages, all looking their best in early July.

I stayed with my brother and his family in Weston Super Mare. My youngest daughter joined us for several days too.

On Saturday evening England were playing Spain in the men's European football final. We all helped make a wonderful buffet before friends arrived and we watched the game from their bar in the garden.

Fortunately the weather was lovely. 

 

My husband watched the game back home with a couple from the hiking group. A huge screen was set up outside the cafes and bars, next to the beach. 

He told me he felt too nervous to cheer when England scored, and when Spain scored the winning goal hundreds of people erupted into loud cheers. 

Car horns were beeping and fireworks were set off for several hours afterwards.

He said he felt relieved Spain had one!

 

The next morning I waved off my daughter at the station. She was spending the rest of the summer staying with her boyfriend's parents, in California..

I drove the short journey to the little Victorian seaside town of Clevedon. 

It had been almost ten years since I had lived here. We had moved to Devon, several years before emigrating to Valencia.

I was meeting a close friend for lunch at a restaurant opposite the beach. As I was quite early I took a stroll along the seafront, and sat down on its little rocky beach. 

There was a school outing and the beach was filled with young children. I noticed they were from the same school two of my daughters had attended. 

As I sat there so many memories of life came flooding back.

I remembered that this beach used to be my sanctuary.

I would come and sit here pondering over problems, looking across to Wales. Especially when my mum was ill.

I celebrated my 30th birthday on a glorious summer evening, spent sunny days crabbing with my daughters, and had watched many sunsets sat with friends around fires, late into the night. 

The large pub opposite was where my daughter in NZ had worked during her 6th form years, and my eldest had her first job in the ice cream parlour.

I had lived so much of my life here, thirty five years to be exact. 

As I watched the young children playing, I started to think how on earth did I get to be 56! 

I felt in that moment like I was a spectator, watching others live their lives. Emotions started to engulf me.    I wasn't expecting this at all!

My friend was quite alarmed as I greeted her in floods of tears. Fortunately, alfresco lunch and catching up for several hours was just glorious..

 

 I stayed with my Dad for a few nights, in the neighbouring town.  Sleeping in my old childhood bedroom, as he still lives in the house we moved to when we left London. Which he keeps beautiful..

I popped into his local Waitrose store, which had more memories for me, I had worked there as a teenager. It was a Gateway supermarket back then.

I recognised some people who were still working there, all these years later!

Walking around I couldn't believe the huge choice of  vegetarian food, I was so stunned I took several photos . 

A man in a rather creased up suit appeared and asked me what I was doing. (The store manager I assumed)

He was rather annoyed, maybe thinking I was spying for another store? I was tempted to say something rude, but instead decided to flatter him.  

Telling him I was in awe of his marvelous selection of vegetarian foods. Explaining I was just taking photos to send to my husband back in Valencia. 

He dropped his guard, saying “oh, well, I am so glad you are appreciating them”. Giving me a look that said I was a little unstable, as he walked off.

The choice of everything was stunning actually. The cheeses,   pickles and condiments, the huge snack aisle, the glorious wines from around the world. 

I picked out an old favourite New Zealand Sauvignon.     Oh I had such a lovely time filling my basket.

It was spilling over with goodies and treats, as I queued at the checkout.

 

One morning my brother drove over and we all put flowers on mum's grave. Walking about the town together felt very nostalgic. I was stunned to see the library had been made into a trendy cafe lounge. 

We popped in for breakfast, that cost a small fortune, Dad kindly paid.

I enjoyed our evenings together. Dad showed me some of his favourite you tube videos. Including a talented classical pianist who played to crowds of very surprised commuters. 

At several busy train stations around London. 

I used to be a keen pianist when I was a child. I had a piano from age 10 and used to entertain everyone at our family gatherings. 

I could instinctively play by ear, any song from the charts and all the TV theme tunes. 

 I went on to have a good teacher and took several exams.

But by my mid teens, spending long hours studying the theory and practicing classical pieces, got in the way of going out with my friends.

So that was that.  My Dad was very disappointed!

 

I'd been longing to enjoy some fish and chips while being back. On our last evening together, dad warmed the plates, as I went to pick up our fish and chip supper. 

We were sharing the chips and my Dad had asked me not to let them put any salt or vinegar on them. As he had kidney stones a couple years back.

Back at his place all ready to eat, I went into the kitchen to get the salt and vinegar. After searching I had to ask him where he kept it these days, he said “oh sorry I dont have any”! 

My first proper fish and chips for ages, without any salt or vinegar, bland as bland can be.

Good job I had my fancy wine!.

 

Rather disappointingly I had to leave what was left of my goodies and treats behind, as they wouldn't fit in my backpack. There's just no getting the air out of a 6pk of Marmite crisps, but oh how I tried!

Next time I will be bringing a suitcase!.

 

My flight home was quite lively. As I sat in the airport lounge, keeping one eye on my boarding gate, I noticed a big group of ladies sitting at the bar  dressed as crabs! 

They were having a great time, laughing and chatting with a group of men, dressed in long wigs and high heeled shoes.

In the queue to board there was an atmosphere like we were all off on a night out. 

Two young lads were sitting in my row, they were very chatty and had recently been to NZ.

 The entire hen party came onboard walking sideways, dressed in their orange crab outfits. 

The hen came on dressed as a bright red lobster! 

They were all Welsh, the stags dressed as ladies and the young lads surrounding my seat were all from the valleys.

It was such a crazy flight, the drinks trolley had been completely drank dry. 

Some of the crabs were standing on their seats swigging their bottles of duty free, as the pilot was preparing to land!

 I was grateful I had taken my sedative and had a couple of gins myself. I was also thankful the mood had remained happy, because the couple of very small young hostesses, wouldn't have stood a chance!. 

 

 

I was very happy to see my husband waiting as I came through arrivals at Alicante. 

Driving from the airport I noticed that the landscape looked baron and dusty, a bit like a lunar landscape.

We soon passed Benidorm, with its impressively tall apartment buildings, and modern space age style hotels. Reminding me of a science fiction movie.

I thought about the lobster and all her crabs, soon to be out reveling in its nightlife!

 

The closer we got to home, the mountains became lusciously covered with vegetation. 

Along with the bushy green foliage of the orange groves, with branches full of new young fruits, resembling dark green golf balls..

 

Watson was very excited to see me, it had been the longest we had been apart in eight years!

The following morning as the weather was glorious, we decided to grab our paddle board and head to the beach early. 

The clarity of the bright blue sky and the sparkling Mediterranean sea looked stunning. I felt my heart sing with joy!

My husband sat at the front with me behind. Our legs dangled over the side, as we slowly glided along the calm water.

As we went further out I could see lots of jelly fish, some were as large as dinner plates! 

I had a bit of a panic, I didn't fancy swimming through them all, if we capsized. So we turned around and slowly went back towards the shore. 

The beach was getting busier by the minute, couples were walking across the sand armed with loungers and beach bags. 

Men along the beach were busy trying out inventive ways to secure large parasols, into the soft dry sand.

Some familiar with the Keen coastal breeze that arrives as regular as clockwork, in the afternoons. 

It can be a dangerous pastime walking on the beach mid afternoon.  Poorly secured parasols, left up by unsuspecting visitors, as they head off for their long lunch.

Fly along the beach, some with their lethal metal pointed ends!

Groups of elderly locals have their chairs clustered together, and were busy chatting and waving their arms about.

Others are at the shoreline in their bathing costumes, searching through all the shells. Hoping to find enough coquinas (baby clams), for a tasty pre lunch treat. 

I read they place the tiny shells in a small pan of olive oil, wine and garlic. After just a few minutes they burst open revealing a tiny sweet clam. 

It seems to be a common pastime, especially amongst the elderly locals. I often watch them scraping about at the shoreline, their tiny shells jubilantly being dropped into glass jars.

Reminding me of coins going into my money box as a young child..

 

Once back on shore we lazily lay on our blanket. My husband quickly nods off, while I enjoy more people watching. 

I noticed several middle aged ladies, probably on holiday from Madrid. As they parade up and down the shoreline, they are either on their phones or carrying their phones in a tiny purse. 

The trend seems to be to hang it from the wrist. These ladies are super slim and their beachwear looks expensive.

A small man catches my eye, who I would guess to be in his 70's. He is wearing a pair of skimpy speedos and a white captain's hat! 

His chest is adorned with a heavy gold chain that's glistening in the sunlight, along with his oiled up, over tanned skin.

 He reminds me of a character from the carry on films. He seems to be enjoying standing very close, to all the young ladies. 

I glance down at my kindle as he passes by, to avoid making eye contact.

 

Sometime later as I am cooling off in the shallows. Not feeling brave enough to go out deep for a swim.  It really looked inviting, and I love to swim as you know, but there have been so many things recently, to make me think twice. 

A local man recently had a shark bite into his leg! Resulting in the beach being closed for half a day!

Also while sitting on our blanket recently, we saw a huge dark shadow go underneath a lady on a paddle board. 

She obviously saw it too, as she paddled in so fast it was like someone had pressed her fast forward button! We all watched from the shore as it swam off.

Another incident was a human leg and hip washed up further along the beach. It apparently still had some clothing attached.

It's jelly fish season, and the giant manta ray is still fresh in my mind from last month. So yes I am currently preferring to cool off in the shallows!

 

 As I turned around the man in the captain's hat was right in front of me, and as I returned to my blanket he strolled over.

He could very surprisingly, speak English and we ended up chatting with him for ages. 

He was such a character, he loved the English and had worked for many years in hotels all across England. While working for Trust House Forte! 

He comes here from Madrid, twice a year and enjoys visiting the English bars up in the old town, for his cooked English breakfasts.

He tells us he adores them, reminding him of the happy years spent working in England.

His much younger, glamorous wife came over and called him away in the end, probably thinking she was rescuing us.

And to think I almost missed out on hearing all his wonderful stories, by being a closed book!.

 

The market this week was wonderful, and filled with so many bargains. I picked up two kilos of huge fresh plum tomatoes, and half a shopping bag of cherry toms, still on their vines. 

My husband loves pepinos  (cucumbers) so I bought a huge bag of those too.

For a change instead of my favourite little roadside bar, today I decided to head to the Mercat Municipal, the town's covered market. To cool off under the air-conditioning and enjoy a little treat.

I had been in before but not on market day. It was packed full!

There are several stalls selling meat. Some with dozens of bright red sausages hanging up, another had a man busy carving slices from a huge leg of Jamon.

I also see dozens of rabbits displayed and very large chickens for sale. They all have a sign above reading, La carniceria, (butchers). 

They have a popular pescaderia (fish mungers) in the centre of the building, which has a very long queue. I go and have a closer look and notice that the fresh tuna, and swordfish are very popular with the locals. 

There are several little bars with seating around the edge, offering coffee, beers and the usual tostadas.

 A French vendor catches my eye, so I wander over to take a closer look.

 Iam super impressed with their offerings. Fresh oysters, stacks of small quiches, wonderful French cheeses and Tiny golden coloured Madeleines,  caught my attention.

After chatting with the owner I learned that one of their quiches are vegetarian friendly, (hooray!)

I found a tiny table to sit at to enjoy my blue cheese quiche and small glass of beer. ..I am loving life!

Before leaving I congratulated the French owner on her delicious quiche and picked up four Madeline's to go..

 

It's honestly far too warm to feel like cooking. Today's temperature is creeping towards 104 degreesC. 

Normally I would have made a lovely ratatouille and enjoyed it with a fresh crusty baguette. 

So I made myself a jug of iced water with slices of lemon and sit looking through my vintage Andalucian cookery book. Hoping to be inspired!

I had picked it up several months ago from one of the flea markets, and hadn't really looked at it properly. 

In the book were several pages dedicated to a traditional Andalusian cold vegetable soup. Gazpacho!

It seemed the perfect solution to using my newly purchased tomatoes and not turning on the stove.

I couldn't believe either of us had not tried it before now. It was so simple to make too.

I washed and chopped a kilo of tomatoes, popped them into my large blender, added one large green deseeded and chopped pepper, two small peeled pepinos, two cloves of garlic, and a hunk of yesterday's stale baguette. 

Then  added a generous glug of olive oil, 30ml of sherry vinegar and two cups of water.

I whizzed together for several minutes, then put it all through a sieve.

So easy!

I covered it with clingfilm and put it in the fridge to chill for a couple of hours, as it is apparently best served very cold.

I poured some into our bowls, drizzled over some olive oil and  a few twists of black pepper.

The soup was a glorious bright red colour and so refreshing and delicious.

It tasted like a really good bloody Mary, minus the vodka. 

We sat under the shade of the parasol, out on the balcony and polished the whole lot off.

A definite new favourite for the heatwave months!.

 

 

Back in the Spring I had seen an advert online for the Universal Symphony Orchestra. Performing classic John Williams themes from well known films.

The concert would take place in an open air bull ring, in August.  So we booked tickets for us and our two American friends.

On the night of the concert we all went for dinner in a newly opened Mexican restaurant, in the town near the bull ring. There was lots of outside seating amongst stunning tall pine trees with views to the mountains.

But as the temperature was still extremely hot, we all sat inside enjoying the air conditioning.

The concert didn't begin until 11. PM (probably due to the heat!). We found our way to the old bullring just a short drive away and joined a very long queue. 

We had booked the middle of the second row and our seats were on the floor of the bull ring, which had a layer of gritty sand over it. 

Lots of people were sitting on the stone tiered steps, all around the building.

Most Ladies as I looked around the crowds were frantically fanning themselves. It had been one of the hottest days of the heatwaves so far.

The orchestra slowly started gathering to their positions on stage. Dressed in beautiful evening gowns, and smart suits. 

The lights went down, leaving the twinkly ambient lighting on the stage, and the beautiful clear starry skies above.

They opened with the theme tune from Jurassic park, it was just wonderful. 

Memories came to the surface, again! I remembered our daughter in NZ, as a young child.

She woke up with the idea of selling some flowers from our garden. She bundled them together with ribbons, Sitting at a table under a little parasol, on the pavement outside our home.  

staying out there all day, until the last bunch had sold!

Later she insisted on treating us all to an evening at the local cinema. To see the first Jurassic park film, with her day's earnings!. 

I was literally spellbound by the concert, I found it very emotional. They played the themes from films throughout my lifetime, Superman, ET, Indiana Jones,  Star Wars, were among them. 

The highlight of the evening for me was when the spotlight went to three musicians, sitting in a line, each behind a huge cello. 

They started to slowly move their bows across the strings, in two slow sweeping movements. 

Creating the unmistakable deep, low foreboding sound, belonging to the start of the theme from Jaws.

I was almost beside myself with joy, as Jaws is my favourite film of all time. (Closely followed by Shirley Valentine! )

I thoroughly enjoyed every moment of the concert.

Unfortunately afterwards some long speeches in Valenciana dragged on a bit and it was almost 2am as we left!

But it was one of the best things I had ever experienced..

 

 

On one of the last days in August we decided to have a day trip to Altea.

We walked Watson before the sun came up and set off early, planning to have our breakfast there. Interestingly the sun rises much later here. In late August it rises around 7.30am, compared to 5.58am in England.

We drove for forty minutes south on the motorway arriving nice and early to beat the summer crowds and heat. (Getting old!)

We had both been to Altea several months before, it was one of the chaps from the walking group's birthday. The men had hiked in the mountains all day, and us ladies had a nice stroll about and lunch in a rustic bar overlooking the Northern end of its beach.

To the south a little along the coast is Benidorm. There is a single track tram line here that you can take, arriving in Benidorm in just 18 minutes. 

The tram starts from Denia, stopping at Calpe, Altea, Benidorm and Alicante. There are no train lines along this stretch of coast.

I was keen today to show my husband all the places I had seen last time. We parked up for free on the outskirts of the town, and strolled about looking for somewhere nice for breakfast.

We walked along the main street just behind the promenade, its the same busy road that goes through our town. That continues all the way down to Murcia. 

The shops here are very elegant, passing several really fancy boutiques, none are open as its still early! We stopped to look in a posh dog groomers, it had huge windows allowing us to watch several dogs having their beauty treatments done.

It was another world here compared with our little town.

We came across a nice spot for breakfast, sharing little sweet and savoury pastries.

 The shops were opening up and it was starting to come alive. We went our separate ways for a while, both keen to explore the shops. 

I found a lovely silk slip dress in a sale for 15 euros! I was over the moon..

My husband was keen to go up into the old town for our lunch. Which was no easy thing in this extreme heat, as it was up the top of a mountain of steep steps.       

So up we start to climb!

We passed quaint old fisherman's cottages, the best examples I had seen since being in Spain. 

Stopping and looking back down at the view, the higher we climbed we were rewarded with a better view, which helped a little.

When we finally arrived at the top we were both exhausted, mostly due to the heat. We almost collapsed into our chairs outside a cute looking Italian place.

The young waitress looked quite concerned and fortunately bought us our cold water nice and quick. 

I had to drink an entire large bottle of sparkling water, I couldn't even consider a glass of wine! 

I will be very happy when these temperatures hopefully cool down soon!.

I noticed walking around its old town that there were several very smart Italian restaurants, compared to our town where there are none. There must be a large Italian community here, I will read up on it later.

A while later we stopped at another, sitting on its terrace, overlooking the stunning church in the old town square. Sharing a margarita pizza, and more sparkling water!

We found a good, but extremely busy viewpoint. With dozens of group photos and selfies going on. 

We could clearly see neighbouring Benidorm from high up here. 

We could also see over all the little roof terraces of the fishermen's cottages, we had hiked up past earlier. 

I remembered hearing that Louie Spence had recently purchased one and was now a resident. 

He does live videos on social media, hanging his washing out on his roof terrace, while having a little natter. Its called the washing line club, It's very popular! 

I loved his pineapple dance studio programme, some years back, and still find him hilarious.

I only recently learnt that he had visited our favourite little bar in our old town last year. Maybe he was checking out where to buy his property?.

 

I had noticed posters advertising the towns Moors and Christian festival, next month in September.  Our one was last month in July, I missed it this year as I was in the UK. 

I guess as it's extremely busy with tourists here, they have to do it when it's a little quieter..

I found more exquisite little boutiques and a patisserie to die for, as we strolled around the little lanes and alleys.

The shops and houses are stunningly decorated, It is definitely the prettiest old town we have visited since arriving in Spain. 

It is extremely busy now and with the intense heat, we decided to head back to the car.

I'm already planning to come back soon to try that patisserie.

Maybe when it's quieter I might catch Louie hanging out his washing!. 

 

 

Later that evening after a nice cold shower and in my favourite loose lightweight kaftan. I was in the kitchen being plagued by a particularly annoying mosquito.

It was one of those scary tiger ones from Asia, that I hear can pierce through clothing!

There was a moment of truce, so I chanced making myself a gin and tonic, keeping one eye on the stripey beast on my kitchen wall.

It honestly looked like something from a cartoon.

A while later I forgot all about it, as I came back into the kitchen for another drink.

As I opened the fridge door to grab my tonic, I saw the mosquito fly out and the bugger flew straight down my throat!

After the initial horror and panic of wondering If I would survive or not!

I eventually took some comfort after reading that it had probably been destroyed by my stomach acids.

 

Thankfully I've not seen once since!

The wonderful concert at the bullring!

New blog coming soon!

Blog 27

A New Life in Valencia
Our second year..

La Gota Fria!



 

 

September arrived with a thunderstorm. 

We were led on loungers at our local chiringuito, facing out to sea with blue skies above.

It was only when I got up to get another drink, that I noticed the menacing almost jet black clouds that had crept up behind us.

A few moments later there was a bolt of lightning!

We quickly gathered our blankets and bags from the beach and swiftly left, along with dozens of others.

By the time we got home, the sky was almost as dark as night. It was also eerily quiet, without the usual loud chirps and chorus of bird song.

Wind came, at first bringing a welcome breeze to the stifling humidity. But It soon grew stronger and wilder. 

Shutters began to bang, empty cans and other small objects in surrounding gardens were being tossed about, as dogs started to bark.

I could see people on terraces in all directions, moving chairs and tables under cover, and tying down parasols and awnings. 

Flashes of sheet lightning lit up the sky in the distance, and the first thick splodges of water began to fall. 

The gloriously earthly scent of petrichor came, as it fell onto parched soil in the vegetable garden below.

After just a couple of minutes, the heavens opened and the first rumble of thunder came. It was very exciting, after not seeing rain for so many months. 

The thunder got really loud as the storm came closer. I counted just seven Mississippies between the lightning and thunder!

The rain was so heavy that standing on the balcony under the cover of it's roof, was like standing behind a powerful waterfall! An almost solid curtain of falling water. 

Watson was giving me one of his best Paddington bear stares, that reached right into my soul. Suggesting I should go inside at once!

I love the alchemy of a good thunderstorm and this one was so welcome.

Then one almighty loud crack of thunder made us almost jump into each other's arms, so to Watson's delight we went inside..

 

For several days after, the sky remained bright white, reminding me of a sky full of snow. 

When walking on the beach I couldn't tell where the sky ended and the sea or sand began. It all merged together.

The chiringuitos were being taken down. Just like last year, an early September storm had announced an abrupt end of summer.

Locals once again vacated their summer homes, Madridians went back to Madrid and our French neighbours returned to France..

 

I had recently seen an attractive flyer advertising an open day at a mango farm. We followed their basic directions, soon arriving in a neighbouring valley. 

We parked up next to several other cars and walked along a dirt track, which still had a few puddles left from the storm.

I could see a small crowd gathered round a couple of rustic tables, displaying baskets of fruits and other goodies.

We were greeted by a friendly young man, who spoke in English. Asking if we would like a tour of the farm.

He showed us terraces planted with neat rows of young mango trees. I thought with their large attractive leaves, they would make an  interesting house plant.

The trees had long thin tuber-like vines, drooping down low. Bearing dozens of heavy ripe mangoes, reminding me of ostrich eggs.

They apparently required a lot of water, I noticed hose pipes underneath all the trees. To help keep the weeds around them down, they had recently purchased a couple of black miniature sheep. 

He tells us they supply several restaurants in the surrounding area, and were hoping to get more customers after the open weekend.

From the terraces there were wonderful views all across the valley. Although it was very warm, the sky was full of dark moody storm clouds.

We passed two absolutely huge trees that were like giant oaks. He tells us they are ancient avocado trees and had given a wonderful crop earlier in the year.

We had seen several avocado farms around the region but they only had trees, of around a metre tall.

I have read that a lot of younger farmers are tearing out orange trees and replacing them with avocados, as they are more lucrative.

I also read they require a considerable amount of water, surely not ideal in this extreme drought!

 

We saw the little black sheep relaxing on fresh hay, in their newly built timber framed enclosure. They looked very content and adorable.

After our little tour, we stopped at their table to see what they were selling. We purchased a fresh mango salad dressing, a spicy mango salsa and six large unripe fruits.

They took almost two weeks to ripen!  But we're out of this world, so fragrantly sweet, sticky and juicy.

I dropped two over to Ona and Pedro, who seemed very impressed!.

 

The following week was our youngest daughter's graduation. It was being held in St Albans Cathedral, near London.

Again one of us would have to stay home with Watson, and as I had only recently visited everyone, my husband would be going. Plus he was happier driving everyone around London!

I was a little green with envy as he would also get to meet and have dinner with our daughter's boyfriend's parents. Who were traveling from California, for the event. 

I got to watch the graduation ceremony on our large TV, via a live stream on you tube. So It wasn't too bad.

I was proud of them both, hearing the loud cheers from their friends, as their names were called out. Then watching as they received their degrees.

I spoke with my daughter later in the evening, she told me they had celebrated afterwards at a Lebanese restaurant.

All enjoying delicious hummus, assorted flatbreads, harissa, dolmades, halloumi, and cous cous.

An ideal choice as everyone was vegetarian!

After a break for the summer, my Spanish class was starting for its Autumn term.

I cycled into town, chose a new notebook and pen, then joined a friend for a drink before our class.

Several new people had turned up. Everyone introduced themselves, and the teacher asked us all how our summers had been.

It felt really good to be back. We learnt about things in the home..

Ventana is window

Cortina is curtain

Niviera is a fridge

Horno is an oven

Messa is a table

Silla is a chair

Grifos are taps

Tazas are cups.

The only easy one was lampara which is a lamp! Next week we will be learning rooms in the home!.

 

Later in the month we had a friend come to stay for a couple of nights. He was passing through on route to Málaga, and was keen to do some star gazing. 

Apparently he had read that the Valencian region was a particularly good spot. So one night after being out for dinner in Denia, my husband drove us to a nearby mountain. 

We drove quite high up the narrow mountain road, then got out to walk the rest of the way up.

It was literally getting darker by the second, and I was relieved to be out of the car. But I was already thinking about the journey back down later, when it would be pitch black!

We had a torch, but it was very dark. 

I was feeling anxious about disturbing families of wild boar! Or the fact that we may fall down a sheer drop, at any moment.

But I kept it to myself, our friend was an old work colleague of my husband's, and I didn't really know him very well.

We had climbed up quite high, and thankfully came to a clearing from the tall pines, to a plateau. 

The sky was a mass of twinkling stars, it looked magical.

He pointed out several constellations and was particularly excited to see Pegasus. Which was an impressively large square, with a few straight lines coming from it.

We even got to witness a shooting star! It looked like a beautiful sparkly silent firework, as it gracefully glided along. Leaving a perfect tail before disappearing.

I took a moment to close my eyes and make a wish. I will let you know if it comes true!

Our friend seemed very pleased with everything. It was past midnight, I was keen to get home to Watson and enjoy a glass of wine on the balcony.

As we turned to walk back down to the car, our friend in front asked “what the hell is that over there!”?

Lit up in the pitch dark, was something resembling the Coca Cola Christmas truck! I could see big red hearts and large green arrows. 

It also had lines of little white lights all around the edge of it's long building, creating something that resembled a cruise ship. Floating in the dark night sky!

It turned out to be a large brothel!! Lit up like a Christmas tree, with several flashing neon signs.

We had passed it during the day, I thought it was just a ropey old hotel, poorly placed opposite a scrap yard!

Apparently before the tolls were removed from the motorway, the road the brothel is on, used to be a preferred truckers route.

As they transported produce from Murcia around the country. 

The motorway which is faster and now free, runs almost alongside it in places. 

The old road now resembles route 66, with it's roadside bars and restaurants left pretty much deserted. 

Apparently the brothel is where the hookers that sit on the white plastic garden chairs, taking their clients into the orange groves, work at night!. 

So my husband tells us! Apparently hearing all about it on one of his hikes!.

 

I bought some huge green tomatoes at the market, planning on making some Indian green chutney. 

When searching online I came across a recipe for southern fried green tomatoes!

My heart almost skipped a beat, I had always wanted to try them, ever since watching the film, fried green tomatoes at the whistle stop cafe.  Some years ago now (1991).

It was such a wonderful film about female friendships, set in the deep south of America. One of their mean husbands gets murdered then barbecued! It's one of my absolute favourites.

The recipe said to slice the large firm green tomatoes, into thick slices (discarding the ends).

 I seasoned them on both sides, and dipped each slice into a small dish of beaten egg.

Then dipped it into another dish of flour, cornmeal and panko bread crumbs, generously seasoned with cajun seasoning. (Garlic powder, onion powder, black & white pepper, paprika, cayenne, oregano).

I shallow fried them in two batches, until they looked nice and golden.

They were so delicious, staying nice and firm so I could easily pick one up to eat with my fingers.

A perfectly natural vegetarian alternative to KFC!

I enjoyed them on their own, but you could make a garlic mayo or BBQ dip.

I am also excited to watch the film again, after all these years!.

 

There were two public holidays in the second week of October, both of which totally escaped us last year.

Valencia day on October 9th,dating back to 1238, when Valencia was freed from Moorish rule. 

Its tradition for the men to give the women a mocadora. An ornately wrapped large marzipan sweet. 

I read that more than 70,000 kilos of marzipan is used to produce around 200,000 mocadoras in the region. To be given to Valencian mothers, wives and girlfriends. 

Good job there are so many almond trees in the area!

 

Then hispanic day is on October the 12th. 

Celebrating the arrival of Columbus to the Americas on October 12th 1492. Spreading Spanish culture across the world! 

So for two days this week the supermarkets, businesses and schools were closed.

As the bars, cafes and restaurants were filled with families celebrating together, until late. It's lovely to be out when the locals are celebrating, the atmosphere is just wonderful..

Sipping my tea in bed, early the other morning I saw on the local facebook group, they were asking for volunteers in the animal rescue shop. 

I had been intending to pop in especially now it had got a bit cooler. I messaged them and started in the shop the following week!

It felt strange setting my alarm to be up early on Monday morning. I cycled and got there for 9.30am.

I had previously managed a large vintage style charity shop in Devon and had worked at several others in Somerset over the years, all for local hospices. 

They were boutique type stores in listed buildings, some with posh chandeliers and all selling high end fancy labels.

The animal rescue shop I walked into today was of stark contrast to any of them! 

At first I gasped in shock as I had a look around, but I went with it and got stuck in.

I was there after all to help raise money to look after all the dogs that had been abandoned! Also I thought it would be helpful to learn some Spanish.

They had no manager or paid staff, everything was run by volunteers. There was no phone or fancy computerized till system, or back office computer.

Just a weighted metal cash tin with a pen and paper!

The small team I worked with were all lovely, most preferred to work in the back sorting room. They each had interesting stories of how they had arrived to be living here.

The bulk of the customers seemed to be elderly Valencian locals and North Africans. Or so I assumed, as most of the ladies wore their traditional cultural clothing, including a hijab (headscarf).

Generally only the furniture had prices on, the clothing wasn't labelled. There was a large poster behind the counter saying how much for each item, written in Spanish and English.

I quickly realised these North African customers couldn't speak Spanish or English, and as I couldn't speak their language it proved to be challenging from the off.

It is also in their culture to haggle!  I was constantly pointing up to the price list, drawing numbers on pieces of paper, or putting three fingers up, if something was three euros.

Which all proved to be fruitless. As they would put down a few cents and think they could have it for that!

I heard myself saying loudly many times throughout my shift, “los dinero para las gatos en peros” (The money is for the cats and dogs).

Which would probably seem absurd to them even if they could understand a word I was saying!

The local council subsidises Spanish lessons, so hopefully they will take advantage of some soon.

It was definitely a lifesaver that I had learnt my numbers, as I counted out all the coins for customers change.

I did manage to sell a grand large dining table, with ornate gold feet shaped like eagles claws.

I noticed two well dressed, quite handsome men, had been looking at it for a while, so I walked over. 

It had an old dusty label on it for 80 euros. At first they offered me 20. I tried my luck and said with a smile, la messa es para un rey”. (The table is for a king) 

As I showed them the ornate golden eagle feet! 

They laughed and seemed to be impressed and we agreed 60 euros cash in the end.

As I watched them carry the table out of the shop, I was feeling quite pleased with myself, I had always been good with sales.

The shop got really busy by late morning. I needed eyes in the back of my head. There were a couple of Russian ladies, about my age, with bleached blonde hair dressed in very blingy outfits. 

After introducing themselves to me I later caught them stuffing dresses into their large shopping bags!

There was also an elderly local man who was the smallest man I had ever seen. I noticed he wore tiny black shoes with quite a high heel. Teamed with a trilby type hat adorned with a green feather.

He had a very charming smile.

He seemed most desperate to purchase a keyboard, as he kept miming playing a piano, over and over. I searched the entire shop and the backroom, but he just wouldn't accept that we didn't have one. However many times I tried to explain it to him. 

He later told my colleague who spoke Spanish that I was very attractive but absolutely useless!!

I went home exhausted!

 

Back home as I ate my sandwich, with my feet up in my peaceful lounge. I thought about how I had loved every minute of being back working in a shop..

 

 

The last week in October was the first time that I had ever heard the phrase, La Gota fria! 

I first heard it spoken on Spanish TV, on the weather report. They showed a satellite image of a huge storm front out at sea that seemed to be heading our way, later in the week. 

The Words DANA were written in large letters above the images.

I read that we are in the season for a possible gota fria, which means in English, the cold drop!

The word DANA means the same; it's the modern term preferred by meteorologists.

Both refer to a violent high impacting autumnal meteorological phenomenon. Causing possible torrential rains and flooding along the Mediterranean coast.

It happens when temperatures clash. As cool mountain air meets hot moist humid air from the sea. Resulting in rapid storm formations that can bring unpredictable intense weather!

Our sea temperature was recorded in August at 29.2 degrees celsius.

I read that warmer sea surface temps, which cause higher humidity, contribute to a higher risk of DANA events that will likely increase in intensity!

 

As you know, I am a little obsessed with the weather. 

After seeing that TV weather report, most of which I couldn't understand a word of! I was constantly checking all my weather apps. 

On Tuesday morning orange weather warnings were put up, for our immediate stretch of coastline.

I spoke with my American friend who was the only other person I knew was also very keen on the weather. She had lived around Florida for several years and had experienced hurricanes.

By Wednesday morning our coastal town had been put on the highest red alert. According to our weather apps,  Accu weather and Aemet, Spain's national weather agency!!

 

I turned on the news channels on Spanish TV, and expected to see it all over the news, to my surprise it wasn't mentioned, even though I watched for a good while. 

It was only mentioned on the short hourly weather report. I can remember thinking that surely they had a duty to warn their viewers of the possible storm risk.

I was very aware that not everyone was looking at weather apps like I had been. Nothing was mentioned!

It started raining early in the morning till around midday. It came back later in the afternoon with around 185mm pr hr, falling in the Valencian region.

I read that anything above 40mm per hour automatically becomes run off! One town had over 400mm fall over four hours!

Several towns exceeded a year's worth of rain in just a few hours and after the long drought the hard ground just couldn't absorb it.

Tragically, some towns that didn't even have any rain, and were completely unaware of any danger. Going about their normal business, driving, shopping or preparing their meals.

As a tsunami of water and mud came crashing through their small town. Picking up trees, cars and concrete structures, as it gained power. Trapping people in their homes, underground garages, or wherever they were when it came..

 

The screamingly loud high pitched warning alerts finally went off on our phones, around 7.30pm.  Unfortunately, several hours too late.

It was one of the deadliest natural disasters in Spanish history. 

For many days after, people desperately searched for missing loved ones. Civil alerts on our phones went off again at around 7am the following morning.

I put the TV on the local news channel and saw the devastation.They had shown that the storm had made landfall about an hour north from our town.

After a few days had passed, after the initial shock and horror, the people's mood quickly turned to anger. 

Thousands of homes were left filled with thick mud, cold and wet, without electricity or drinking water. Roads were inaccessible, and thousands of cars were piled high.

There had been no response from the regional Voted in Valencian government, it was felt this led to further unnecessary deaths. When search and rescue operations should have been put in place. 

Along with the civil alerts not being activated soon enough, even though the national weather agency had warned of possible threat to life many hours before.

The people of Valencia were grieving and in pain. 

At least King Felipe and Queen Letizia went and visited the worst affected areas, offering their condolences.

Tragically 237 people lost their lives.

Spain was in national mourning for three days..

 

Teams of volunteers came from all over Spain to help clear away the mud.

Human chains were formed to pass aid, food, water, nappies, medicines, buckets and brushes.

As roads and bridges were smashed up, lorries and other vehicles couldn't get through.

Our town and many others across the province quickly set up drop off areas for donations, and drivers delivered the aid as close as they could get it.

 

Mercadona coordinated using their stores and vehicles, delivering over 300 tonnes of food, water and other essential items.

They also gave 1000 employees 50,000 euros towards homes and vehicle loss. 

Along with 2 million euros to help affected towns with clean up.

The Ikea store on the outskirts of Valencia, served as a refuge to over 700 people trapped by the flood. Thanks to the store's elevated design they stayed safe.

 The store was also used as a red cross point for several weeks after. 

Ikea also donated a large sum to help repair 250 homes and communal spaces.

Real Madrid football team also donated 1 million euros. 

Teams of local businesses and volunteers all played a crucial role in the aftermath. The army also helped.

Four days later, November 2nd was one of the country,s most celebrated traditions. The day of the dead, where relatives of loved ones visit cemeteries all over Spain and leave floral tributes.

This year all cemeteries were locked as a mark of respect for the families of the flood victims..

 

Just two weeks later we had more severe weather warnings. Resulting in several more civil alerts going off on our phones. We had more torrential rain and very strong storms.

I laid awake through the night during one dreadful thunderstorm.

My husband slept with his earplugs, after several tumblers of brandy, as me and Watson huddled up together on the bed. 

The storm was so close the thunder and lightning both shook the apartment, making our windows shake.

It was honestly more terrifying during the rare moments  it went quite. I felt like a small child, as a huge monster growled and circled around outside, above us.

Then the next crash and crack and boom would come. Making the apartment shake again. I honestly sat praying over and over, for it to go away.

It finally went after several hours, so I got up and made some tea, as I was filled with adrenaline.

I could hear people outside frantically bailing water out with metal buckets in the dark. I later found out it was a neighbour whose patio was flooded by drain water spewing out, and the water was coming up to their back door and in their kitchen.

After only a short while the storm came back, or maybe it was another one. It was just as terrifying and violent and again lasted several hours.

I was half thankful we were up on the second floor, so we couldn't flood and half terrified that we would be struck. I have never been more afraid of weather in my life.

On the news the next morning more flooding was obviously reported. It was sad to see that the storm had caused further damage to the original Dana sites and had seriously put back the cleaning and clearing efforts.

 

Several storm channels leading into our beach were filled to the max bringing water down to the sea from the mountains.

Our local beach had become piled up with debris that had washed down.

Piles of thick bamboo, several huge trees, pampas grasses, plants from fields, oranges, vegetables, dead fish and the odd dead rat!  Which remained on the beach for many weeks.

 

The weather stayed extremely unsettled for months after. We had the coldest January for 30 years, then at the end of the month strong winds brought a tropical day of 27 degrees C!

We had 50 days of rain through February and March. The drain covers along the roads at the beach were lifted up, as water forcefully gushed out from under them.

 

Spain's three year drought had definitely come to an end!

 

 

New blog coming soon..

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